SECT, XII. OF PRUNING. 141 



ters, and the length too inches to three, having some 

 wider, longer, and stronger, for large branches. In 

 the disposition of shreds, some must have their ends 

 turned downwards, and some upwards, as best suits, 

 for bringing the shoots to their proper place, and 

 strait direction. Though some pruners observe a 

 sort of alternate order, yet the ends hanging chiefly 

 down, will look best. Use no more shreds and nails 

 than necessary to make good work, as the effect is 

 rude and injurious. 



The hammer used in nailing branches should be 

 neat and light, with a perfectly smooth and level face, 

 about two thirds of an inch diameter, having a claw 

 for drawing nails. As nails are apt to break out 

 pieces of the wall in drawing, it is a good way to 

 give the nail a tap to drive it a little, which loosen- 

 ing it from its rust, makes it come out easier, and 

 so saves a wall from large holes, which is a material 

 thing. 



Trellises have been recommended to be placed 

 against walls, as a means of keeping a wall sound, 

 and giving the fruit more room to sw^ell. In the 

 training of fruit trees that do not require the greatest 

 degree of sun, and in situations where the loss of a 

 little heat is not material, this method of training 

 trees is a good one. But perhaps there are not 

 many situations in England, (common as it is on the 

 continent) where this mode of culture can be adopted, 

 as all the sun we meet with here is generally but 

 barely sufficient for peaches, nectarines, grapes, and 

 Jigs. Apricots, however, may do, and when trained 

 upon a trellis, in a southern aspect, grow finer, and 

 are less mealy than directly against a wall. A du- 

 rable, neat, and almost in visible trellis might be made 

 of vine. 



Trellises should be made of seasoned deal, and 

 squared to slips. of three-fourths of an inch, or a 



