150 OF PRUNING, SECT. Xlt. 



and prefer those shoots that are shortest jointed, and 

 have the blossoms most in the middle. The shoots 

 that lie well, and are fruitful, or healthy, and but a 

 few inches long, may be left whole. Always contrive 

 to have a good leader at the end of every principal 

 branch. 



Young trees (as of the first year of branching) 

 should have the lower shoots left longer in propor- 

 tion, and the upper shorter, in order to form the 

 tree better to the filling of the wall : the lower 

 shoots may have three or four eyes more than the 

 upper. 



In furnishing a tree, consider where it wants 

 wood, and cut the nearest unbearing branch (or if 

 necessary, a bearing one) down to one, two, or more 

 eyes, according to the number of shoots desired, 

 for in such close shortening, a shoot will come from 

 each eye. With a view to wood for filling up a 

 naked place, a shoot formed after Midsummer may 

 be thus shortened ; though the general rule is, to 

 displace all such late shoots as useless; the de- 

 pendence for blossoms being on the early formed 

 shoots. 



The time for the principal, or winter pruning, is 

 by some gardeners held indifferent, if the weather is 

 mild at the time; but a moderate winter's day is 

 often quickly followed by a severe frost, which may 

 hurt the eye and blossom next the cut The best 

 time is at the fall of the leaf, and should take place 

 as soon as the leaves begin to fall. November is, 

 generally speaking, a good time, and if this month 

 is past, then February, if it is mild, or as soon after 

 as possible, for when the blossom buds get swelled, 

 they are apt to be knocked off by a little touch, or 

 jar of the hammer. 



An autumn pruning will make the tree stronger, 

 lind the blossoms some bolder and forwarder; ancl 



