l&g OF PRUNING/ SCT. XIi. 



few C3 7 es to form new shoots, as was directed for 

 peaches, c. But generally some of the shoots are 

 to be left, with due shortening, only taking it as a 

 rule, that it is not proper to leave much wood on ; 

 but to prune down freely, in order to the putting out 

 strong shoots for parent branches. See heading 

 down, under the directions for espalier pruning. 



The form of pear trees is to be governed by the 

 trail. If the space allowed the tree is low and long, 

 it must of course be trained perfectly horizontal ; 

 but if there is room above, and a deficiency of 

 length, the form becomes more erect: Yet even in 

 this case, the lower and more horizontal branches 

 should be allowed to get the start a year or two, be- 

 fore the middle is permitted to fill, which ought not 

 to have any over strong wood, lest it run away with 

 the strength, of the tree, and keep the extremities 

 weak. Train the branches at length, without short- 

 ening, and keep them at from six to eight inches dis- 

 tance, according to the size of the fruit ; remember- 

 ing it is essential, that the branches be clear of one 

 another, for the sun and air to have free access : 

 Pruners should consider this circumstance, in all 

 trees, more than they generally do. The reason for 

 not shortening the branches is, that wood is always 

 thrown out from two or three eyes below a cut, and 

 so the tree would become a thicket of useless wood, 

 if such cutting took place. 



The mode of bearing in pear trees is on short 

 spurs, which appear first towards the ends, and then 

 form themselves all along the branches, which do 

 not produce blossoms for three or four years from 

 planting, and sometimes (according to the sort, or 

 perhaps soil) for several years more. When they 

 are come to fruiting, some pears bear pretty much 

 on year old wood, some on two, others on three. 

 The same branches continue to bear on the same 



