170 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII. 



properly placed for training, two on each side, the 

 lower one may be cut down, to seven or eight eyes, 

 and that above to three or four : If the tree has 

 more shoots, they may be either all cut out to two 

 on each side, shortening as before, or one (if not over 

 strong) left perpendicular, being cut down to a few 

 eyes : or if the tree is somewhat old, and has a good 

 root, more well-placed shoots may be left on, keep- 

 ing the lowermost longer than the upper by two or 

 three eyes, making the upper ones very short. If 

 these directions are properly observed, an espalier 

 (or a wall) will be properly and presently filled. 



The best time for heading down is the spring, 

 though when trees are planted early in autumn, it may 

 be then done. All cuts should be close behind an eye. 

 When a strong stem is to be cut down at spring, re- 

 member to place the foot against it, to keep the root 

 in its place, and use a sharp knife. 



Heading down is advised to be deferred till spring^ 

 not only on account of frosts possibly injuring the 

 top eye of the fresh cut shoots ; but because the 

 head of a tree on helps to push out roots. The 

 properest time to prune the heads of new planted 

 trees, is when new roots are formed ; and then a 

 head disproportioned to the roots should by no 

 means be suffered, as the new shoots would come 

 too weak to be healthy, or fruitful. For planting 

 espaliers, &c. See page 37. 



3. OF PRUNING STANDARD TREES. 



The principle of pruning standard trees is the 

 same, whether full, half, or dwarf standards ; and 

 the object is to form a compact handsome round and 

 open head rather small than large, equal on all sides, 

 witii tolerably erect wood, capable (as far as the art 

 of the pruner can go) of supporting the fruit with-* 



