222 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 



VERBASCUM (Mullein) V. olympicum is one of the handsomest of a 

 large number of species. It grows from 4 to 6 feet high. Although a 

 perennial, it is best treated as a biennial. The seeds should be sown in 

 August or September. It is a good plant for the back part of a sunny 

 border. 



VERONICA (Speedwell) A large genus, including a number of shrubby 

 species, principally from New Zealand. There are only a few herbaceous 

 species which are worthy of a place in the garden, as the majority are 

 of a weedy appearance and last only a very short time in bloom. V. 

 gentianoides attains a height of 12 inches when in bloom. There is a 

 handsome variegated form, the flowers of which should be removed, as 

 this tends to induce growth at the base. V. incana has whitish foliage 

 and deep blue flowers; it is best raised from seeds. V. amethystina is 

 one of the best of the tall herbaceous kinds, growing about 18 inches 

 high. V. taurica, V. Teucrium, V. prostrata and V. satureioides are first- 

 class rockery plants, which should be increased by division early in the 

 season. 



VINCA (Periwinkle) V. herbacea loses its foliage in the Fall. In April 

 it makes short flowering growths, followed later by long vine-like 

 shoots, which take root at the extremities and form new plants. It 

 thrives well in full sun. V. minor, the commonest kind, has blue flowers, 

 also double blue, double purple, single white and variegated leaved 

 forms. It is much used in planting among shrubbery and for covering 

 shady spots under trees. It will thrive in almost any position, and 

 takes possession of the ground to the exclusion of most other herbaceous 

 perennials. 



VIOLA (Violet) V. odorata is the parent of the numerous single and 

 double forms which are grown for their flowers in Winter and Spring. 

 Propagation is effected by cuttings and division of the old plants. 

 From the nature of the species the method of building up a plant from 

 the cutting, or runner, is the surest way of obtaining free growing, 

 healthy specimens. The plants send out runners, and those intended for 

 propagation should be allowed to develop to a certain extent. In the 

 latter half of February, and during March, they are taken off and either 

 inserted in the sand bed of a cool house or dibbled in boxes of sand and 

 kept under conditions favorable to rooting. When rooted they are put 

 in 2-inch pots. After the roots show on the outside of the ball they are 

 given a shift into 3-inch pots and placed in cold frames, giving abundant 

 ventilation and shaded either with naphtha and white lead, or with 

 lath slats. In this section the plants are given their Winter quarters in 

 June. They are largely grown in frames from which frost is excluded 

 by banking the outside with stable litter level with the sash, and run- 

 ning at least one 1%-inch heating pipe in the front or back part of the 

 frame. But even under those conditions the flower crop is not continu- 

 ous during very severe weather. In planting in benches, or beds, the 

 operation is usually completed by June 15. Benches are used with 

 about 5 inches of soil. Narrow and low-roofed, equal-span houses, run- 

 ning east and west, with the benches as near the glass as possible, pro- 

 duce satisfactory results. Houses of the same order running north and 



