GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 297 



Clean Pots It is the common custom, and a bad one I think, to put 

 plants in dirty pots with merely the rough of the soil remaining in them 

 being removed with a stick or cloth before using. This operation takes 

 more time than washing. A large number of pots submerged in a big 

 tub of water and allowed to stand for a few days will have the material 

 adhering to them softened so that with a piece of woolen cloth and a 

 boy that knows how, a large number can be cleaned in a short time so 

 that they will be as good as new. There is no doubt that dirty pots 

 work to the injury of the plants in them. The inside soil adhering to the 

 pot after use prevents a plant being easily knocked out and the green 

 on the outside tends to make the pot less porous; besides, a plant looks 

 better by far in a clean pot than in a dirty one. New pots or thoroughly 

 dried, clean ones should not be used until they have been dipped in 

 water immediately before using, as they are apt to absorb too much of 

 the water meant for the plant after potting. Have divisions in the 

 potting shed for each size; it saves both time and pots, and when pot- 

 ting is to be done everything goes along more smoothly when the vari- 

 ous materials are ready at hand. There is usually more time wasted in 

 gathering the necessary sizes from here, there and everywhere, wiping 

 out a few at a time and punching a stick through the aperture at the 

 bottom than would be spent over the work if it were properly done. 

 System counts in this as in everything else. 



Drainage Crocking or arranging pieces of broken pots or other mate- 

 rial over the hole in the bottom of the flower pot for drainage is an 

 operation to which too little attention is apt to be given. For quick- 

 growing soft-wooded plants in small pots, or for those which are 

 intended to remain in the pot only for a short time, there is no necessity 

 for an elaborate system of drainage. Especially is this the case where 

 the ball of earth becomes so dry as to require watering at least once a 

 day. With plants of this nature, in pots above the size of 3-inch, a little 

 rough material thrown in the bottom will give compensatory results; 

 but as usually done this work takes more time than if the pots were 

 supplied in the regular way with potsherds. The rough pieces of the 

 potting soil are gathered up by hand and put in the pots as potting 

 proceeds. A better way will be secured as follows: Soil which is to be 

 used for cuttings, and which is screened, will give excellent material in 

 the rough pieces which do not pass through the meshes; this should be 

 saved, mixed with thoroughly rotted cow manure, and put in a box 

 conveniently situated for future use. This gives splendid material for 

 drainage, especially for bedding plants, such as Geraniums in 4-inch 

 pots, Cannas in 5-inch pots, and for young Chrysanthemums. It will 

 be found that that part of the pot holding this mixture will have a great 

 attraction for the roots. Where the pots are to serve for growing plants 

 in for any length of time, potsherds should be used. With Palms, Ferns 

 and such plants as Pandanus, Dracaenas and Marantas a carefully 

 crocked pot cuts quite a figure in their healthy root action. For Cala- 

 diums, Alocasias, Anthuriums and other plants which require an abun- 

 dant supply of water, careful drainage is an absolute necessity. With 

 fine-rooted plants, such as Heaths and Azaleas, drainage is equally 

 important. It will be found good policy to have a supply of the differ- 



