vii.] MARRIED LIFE. 173 



'DEANERY, ELY, Sunday, June 29^, 1845. 

 ' . . . And so I have retreated to my little bedroom 

 in the top of the Deanery to have a little talk quietly 

 with you, and I will tell you more than I have done 

 about this place. The Isle of Ely is a comparatively 

 high ground, which rises out of the adjacent fen country, 

 which is almost perfectly flat, rising not more than a very 

 few feet above the sea. It was formerly an unhealthy 

 swamp, but is now generally drained and very fertile. 

 From its situation, Ely Cathedral has a grand effect, and 

 really the ground just near it is very undulating and 

 pretty, more varied than near Cambridge. The Deanery 

 is close to the Cathedral, a curious old-fashioned patch- 

 work house, most comfortably fitted up by our admirable 

 host, who is really a very uncommon person. He was, 

 you know, tutor at Trinity College, and was generally 

 liked. It is impossible to put Peacock out ; he has time 

 for everything, and a civil word for everyone ; he is a 

 first-rate man of business, and what he has done for Ely 

 shows no common taste and enthusiasm. He has im- 

 proved and is improving the Cathedral in every part, 

 laid out the neighbouring grounds and gardens afresh, 

 and he is passionately fond of architecture and music ; 

 his patience never wearies in showing off the beauties 

 and architectural singularity of his cathedral, and in 

 directing the chanting, and visiting the lessons of the 

 singing boys. The choir is, therefore, one of the most 

 practised in England, and the service the most complete 

 so complete as to be almost wearisome to one who has 

 oot such a musical taste, yet undeniably most beautiful. 

 This morning we had a Credo of Mozart, most mag- 

 nificent, an anthem, and all the responses chanted, 

 including the Litany, so that the prayers, without the 

 sermon, lasted two hours. 



' I never was in a pleasanter house, nor perhaps so 

 pleasant a one, and one seems even not to miss a Mrs. 

 Dean, for the poor Dean n \ r was married, nor will lc, 

 I suppose, except to his Cathedral. One cannot have 

 everything in this world, and I suppose he would not 



