200 THE LIFE OF JAMES ]). F01U1KS. [CHAP. 



deenshire, with most beautiful weather except just at 

 starting, when we had a dense and cold fog. We first 

 lionized Aberdeen very thoroughly, spending nearly two 

 days, one of which we devoted to old Aberdeen, where I 

 wished much for you. I very much recommend you on 

 your next Scotch trip to make up your mind once for all 

 for a sea- voyage which you have been, I do not know 

 how many years, talking about, but I observe it always 

 evaporates into rail and go to Aberdeen, which is nearly 

 as quick as to Leith, and as cheap. You will be delighted 

 with the old King's College, unless I am much mistaken, 

 or unless I am even now preparing you a disappointment 

 by saying so much about it. I was most struck by the 

 College chapel, which is the choir of the old one, the 

 remainder being converted with slight change into the 

 library, where the holy water basin at the old entrance is 

 still quite uninjured. The chapel contains the original 

 carved-oak stalls, &c., in most admirable preservation, 

 quite unlike anything else which I recollect in Scotland. 

 It seems that the iconoclastic spirit was never so strong 

 in that country. Crowns, mitres, and bishops' tombs 

 are quite uninjured in the old cathedral, though in other 

 respects it is fearfully transmogrified. The old Gothic 

 bridge of Don is very interesting, and that I recollected 

 well. Leaving Aberdeen I pretermit the other sights 

 we went up the Don. I was on the whole much dis- 

 appointed with the scenery, though it is an eminently 

 industrious, thriving country. The neighbourhood of our 

 former family place, Monymusk, was the chief exception 

 in point of scenery ; there it is highly beautiful, with 

 some grand timber. We spent a day at Castle Fraser, an 

 admirable specimen of what is called, I believe, Flemish 

 style, as it prevailed from two to three hundred years ago. 

 We subsequently visited Craigivar, also a fine old tur- 

 reted castle. We found the Dee at Aboyne, where, 

 and subsequently, we had always difficulty in finding 

 accommodation, every inn being full in that region. W- 

 always slept out, not in the open air, but in a supplemen- 

 tary hospitium. Thanks t our stars, we escaped " the 



