214 THE LIFE OF JAMES D. FORBES. [CHAP. 



part of the town, even under these conditions, one of the 

 finest I had seen, especially that from the promenade 

 which belongs to the chateau, but is open to the public/ 



Journal, July 9. 



' A splendid morning. . . . The whole range of the 

 Hautes Pyrenees was now uncovered, and presented as 

 noble and rugged an outline as I ever saw. I hastened 

 to the promenade to enjoy this superb view, which ren- 

 ders it, I should think, the finest of its kind in Europe. 

 After walking an hour on the promenade, and learning 

 the names of the principal mountains, by the aid of a 

 map and of Brugiere's Outlines of the Pyrenees, I sought 

 a new point of view by crossing the Gave de Pau and 

 mounting the exquisitely rich cote on the other side 

 going out by the road to Lourdes, and returning by 

 that to the Eaux-Bonnes. As I expected, I found in 

 the midst of rich scenery some magnificent points of 

 view, especially that of the Pic de Midi de Pau, looking 

 up the Eaux-Bonnes road, which is bordered by poplars 

 of great height. ... I left at 4 P.M. for Eaux-Bonnes. 

 .... The springs of Eaux-Bonnes enjoy a high reputa- 

 tion, especially when taken inwardly. ... It is very 

 singular that of two of the springs, which are about 200 

 yards from each other, one should be a hot spring, and the 

 other cold, or nearly so : and that with nearly the same 

 constitution, as Dr. Darrall assures me ; the cold one 

 containing, however, more sulphur. The costumes are 

 very picturesque : the women wear showy red hoods, 

 flat topped and peaked ; and the men, scarlet sashes of 

 silk or worsted, which contrast admirably with the dark 

 brown garments of undyed wool with which they are 

 clothed from head to foot/ 



Eaux-Bonnes was succeeded by Eaux-Chaudes, with its 

 splendid gorge, to which Forbes had seen nothing superior, 

 except the Via Mala. ' If ever there was a valley of 

 disruption/ he writes, 'it is this one, though I do not 

 pretend always to decide. This confirms Dr. Daubeny's 



