FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 33 



chance to make head against the undertow of 

 corruption and prejudice. 



By noon we had reached one of the last houses 

 on the southern side of Smoky. Here we sought 

 dinner, but found, alas, what too many of the 

 North Shore people live upon, — sour bread, 

 boiled tea, sour milk sweetened and watered, 

 and berries. Our hosts could probably have 

 added salt fish, eggs, and oatmeal porridge, had 

 they felt like it. But we made the best meal we 

 could off the food offered, and asked for no ad- 

 ditions, feeling that what we ate might be seri- 

 ously diminishing their own dinners. 



Upon rather insufficient rations, therefore, we 

 advanced against Smoky, and began the ascent 

 by following inland a noisy stream which flowed 

 seaward alons; the mountain's southern border. 

 After carrying us deep into the forest, which 

 was by far the most lofty and vigorous growth 

 of trees we had thus far seen on the island, the 

 road crossed the torrent and turned seaward 

 again, ascending by easy grades through a dense 

 birch growth. On the whole, the road was well 

 made, and showed skill on the part of those who 

 planned it. When we reached its highest point, 

 we found the top still unconquered ; so, strik- 

 ing through bushes and over steep ledges, we 

 clambered to the undisputed summit, and there 

 paused to survey the panorama below us. 



