THE GRAND TOUR (1768-69) 105 



even to look at the cathedral. I quote the account in the diary 

 of the drive to London : 



' The whole drive is very pretty ; the roads, except in the towns, 

 and above all in the tiresome Rochester, are not bad. One passes 

 cultivated valleys, charming hills often wooded, beautiful, deliciously 

 green meadows, pleasant country houses scattered here and there. 

 A well-clothed, well-looking peasantry, and women with large hats, 

 gave us a good impression of England. Still, the gloomy forebodings 

 of our Joseph [their servant] on English coinage added to all the 

 warnings we had been given in Holland ; the effects of the movement 

 of the vessel, which we still felt, and our general uncertainty as to our 

 adventure, capped by the boredom of having our two servants in the 

 carriage with us, took away a great deal from the pleasure of the 

 journey.' 



The first view of London surprised them by the crowd of 

 steeples, in the centre of which rose the dome of St. Paul's, and the 

 number of vessels, which seemed to form part of the city and added 

 to its apparent size. They drove up Pall Mall, and, after being 

 warmly received by their old friend Dr. Turton, sought rooms at 

 ' The Gentleman's Hotel,' which, far from deserving its name, 

 proved full of noxious insects. 



For the next day or two I transcribe the entries in de Saussure's 

 journal : 



' Friday, 15th Augmt. 



' Rose early. Hairdresser who had been at Geneva. Breakfasted 

 with Turton. Went with him to look for lodgings, to buy maps of 

 London and England, to see Mr. Boissier [his cousin] at the Royal 

 Exchange ; met Mr. Beauclerk, returned, took my wife to see lodgings, 

 engaged those nearest Turton, very convenient, the landlady acting 

 as cook, all for three guineas a week, dined there at once with Turton 

 and young Fisher, very pleasant ; after dinner went to the Opera to 

 hear La Buona Figliola, actors heavy, but fine voices and excellent 

 orchestra. Dances vigorous but wanting in grace. Saw for the first 

 time Miss Harriet Blosset, with Mr. Banks, 1 her betrothed. Returned 

 on foot from the opera with them and supped together. The eldest 

 daughter, tall, decided, agreeable, a great musician, splendid voice, 

 fond of society, polished. The second Miss Harriet, desperately in 

 love with Mr. Banks, from whom she was to part next day hitherto 



1 Sir Joseph Banks, afterwards president for many years of the Royal Society. 

 His engagement to Miss Blosset is not referred to by his biographers. 



