110 LIFE OF HORACE BENEDICT DE SAUSSURE 



crowd, all had the charm of novelty for the Genevese travellers. 

 At supper they feasted on the ' singuliers oiseaux qui viennent 

 de la province de Lincoln et qui sont si peu sociables, mais 

 excellents.' Apparently bitterns, which in those days were held 

 a choice dish . 



The York festival lasted a week. About noon the company 

 went to the races. One day the de Saussures drove there in the 

 carriage of Lady Rockingham, drawn by six horses and escorted 

 by seven grooms in livery on horseback. Thence to the Assembly, 

 for which they put on full dress on alternate days. De Saussure 

 writes, ' Ce jour-ci les dames n'^taient pas habillees, elles le sont 

 ou ne le sont pas, alternativement.' There were concerts and 

 plays. One night a brilliant ball took place in ' the superb hall.' 

 There was no lack of attention shown to the young Genevese 

 couple. De Saussure had interesting conversations with the Whig 

 statesman, Sir George Savile, on the government of England, and 

 with the ' old and good ' Archbishop, ' si honnete, si poli.' On the 

 last evening the company broke up with many regrets and promises 

 to meet again, and the de Saussures received numerous invitations 

 to various parts of the kingdom. They went off at once to pay 

 their first visit to an English country-house, that of their new 

 acquaintance, Mr. Earle, ten miles north of York. They were 

 fortunate in lighting on a very good specimen of the Queen Anne 

 period. Benningborough Hall is a fine brick mansion, with a 

 ' noble vestibule ' and a dancing-room, which had remained un- 

 touched until the estate recently came into the market, a large 

 garden going down to the river, a wooded park, and all the 

 appurtenances of an English gentleman's place. ' Belle verdure 

 de 1'Angleterre, a laquelle aucun pays du monde n'est comparable,' 

 is a note in de Saussure 's journal. Their hosts were agreeable. 

 ' At tea we talked of the human race and of all our acquaintances. 

 Mr. Earle seemed to me a good judge of men, fine perceptions and 

 shrewd and strong ideas ; in general he is something of a pessimist, 

 but he argues his case ably. His only fault seems to be a slight 

 tendency to boast of himself and his country.' After a stay of 

 two nights, Mr. Earle took his guests to view the sights of York- 

 shire. They began with Castle Howard, where the magnificent 

 gardens and hot -houses made a deep impression on the visitors. 

 They admired also the house with its gallery of Italian paintings 



