4 THIRTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE EAST. 



the many remedies which I apph'ed, Lawsonia inermis 

 proved the most effective. Every evening, before going to 

 bed, I applied to the affected part the pulverized herb, with 

 as much water as was sufficient to make a soft poultice. In 

 the morning I washed it off, but the place continued red ; 

 it is the same herb, indeed, with which the fair sex in the 

 East stain their hands and feet. To strengthen my body, 

 and especially my feet, I also used sea-bathing, which had a 

 very good effect. From Sissopolis, we arrived, after a 

 voyage of two days, at Constantinople. The view of the 

 panorama of the Turkish capital and its environs, which we 

 had on entering the Bosphorus, was so fine, and so imposing, 

 that I felt compensated for all the dangers and troubles 

 hitherto endured, and completely forgot them for the time, 

 In winter (the middle of December, 1816) nature was still 

 arrayed in green. This, however, did not last long ; for in 

 the beginning of January a heavy fall of snow, three feet 

 deep, took place, and it grew much colder than I expected 

 to find it in Stambul. 



Before the expiration of the year 18 17, I had an oppor- 

 tunity of continuing my journey towards Jerusalem, a city 

 I was desirous of visiting. I was engaged as physician in 

 ordinary to the Governor of Tocat, with whom I travelled 

 into the interior of Asia Minor. However agreeable this 

 journey might have been during the summer, it was very 

 fatiguing during the winter, as almost every step cost us an 

 effort, and we made our way with difficulty through the snow 

 which covered the high mountains of Asia Minor. The 

 caravan of the new governor, which whom I travelled, con- 

 sisted of sixty horses and mules. One day we lost our 

 way during a violent snow-storm in the mountains of 

 Anatolia, and we had to pass a very bad night, till at last 

 we got out of the deep snow, and found a village. On this 

 journey I began to make a collection of antiques ( ancient 

 Greek coins and engraved stones ), which at that time were 

 easily obtained at the silversmiths, at a low price. I regret 

 I did not then so well understand the value of them. From 

 Tocat 1 travelled to Aleppo, passing through Kaisari, 



