36 THIRTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE EAST. 



not pass. From the course of the river, however, we had 

 known in what direction Bagdad was situated ; and, travel- 

 ling upwards, we very soon reached a few black tents •, but 

 the people were so poor that they could not offer us any 

 hospitality, as they had food neither for us nor our horses. 

 The only service they proffered was to give us a guide, 

 who br6ught us, after half-an-hour's walk, to the tent of 

 the sheikh, where we met with a very kind reception. 

 The sheikh himself was at this time in Bagdad, but in his 

 absence his wife performed the duties of hospitality. She 

 ordered the servants to light a fire under the large tent, 

 where we dried and warmed ourselves, and were served 

 with fresh coffee and rice-pilaw. The servants took charge 

 of our horses, and after having taken my meal, I went to 

 sleep. A corner of the tent served me for my bed, and 

 my saddle-bags as a pillow. Before dawn, the Tartar awoke 

 me, saying : " We mu5t proceed on our journey." I drowsi- 

 ly arose, and at the same time my servant showed me that 

 they had cut through my saddle-bags on one side, and 

 extracted the bundle containing my best clothes. I remem- 

 bered having heard, during the night, some goats bleating 

 outside the tent ; and probably the thief had brought them 

 there, that he might perform his exploit with more security. 

 The Tartar began to make a noise, threatening to arrest 

 the sheikh at Bagdad, and to make him pay ten times 

 the value of the stolen property, if they did not find out 

 the thief. They made researches, it is true, but without any 

 good result. On the same day, towards evening, we arrived 

 at Bagdad, where I was informed that my intended patient 

 required no more medical assistance, as he was reposing 

 quietly in his grave. 



At Bagdad I also performed several operations for the 

 stone, but 1 did not vaccinate, in consequence of being in- 

 formed, to my ereat astonishment, that several Christian 

 ladies obtained their livelihood by vaccinating. Provisions 

 were at this time so cheap at Bagdad, and the coin so bad, 

 that one shilling was valued at about five grush ( piaster ) ; 

 coQsequeatly, litUe was to bs obtaiaei Ui^re. VVi w^re 



