74 THIRTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE EAST. 



to my monarch. My wish to perform this act of duty in 

 the proper costume, was the cause of my appearing habited 

 as a native of Bokhara, in the years 1834, 1835, and 1836, 

 when travelling through Europe. 



The journey from Bokhara to Russia, which I performed 

 in thiriy-five stations, was one of the most pleasant I ever 

 had in the whole course of my travels, as no impediments 

 from the elements, or other disastrous occurrences, happened 

 during the route ; yet, to make good the proverb of Solomon 

 "There exists nothing perfect in this sublunary world," 

 we had a little episode, which I will here relate. Passing 

 the rivar. Sir— known in antiquity under the name of 

 Jaxartes — we arrived at a custom station, where they 

 demanded an enormous toll, which we had not any right 

 whatever to pay. An awful quarrel arose, and we were 

 about preparing for a fight, when our antagonists, perceiv- 

 ing our arms, began to feel a little more respect for us ; 

 they still, hov/ever, continued to make a noise and to. voci- 

 ferate, and made fire-signals for their brethren in the 

 desert to hasten to their assistance. But the affair 

 was soon settled, and we went on our way without any 

 further molestation. With regard to mercantile interests, 

 I must here add, that among the products and manufac- 

 tures, native and foreign, of Bokhara, are lamb-skins, 

 dyed linen, horses, indigo. Cashmere shawls, &c. Respect- 

 ing indigo, I may observe that it was most impure stuff, 

 for I observed that one-half of it was nothing but particles 

 of clay, in the same shape as it is brought by the Loanis 

 from Dhera-Ghasi-Khan, Moultan and Bhawulpore. How 

 much might be saved in the carriage, and in duty at the 

 custom-houses, if the indigo were purified previous to 

 exportation I We were almost induced to take with us a 

 great quantity of sarsaparilla from the desert, but I soon 

 recognised it to be a mere substitute for the real article. 

 Among other objects which attracted my attention in the 

 desert, connected with scientific knowledge, was the kumiss 

 ( fermented mare's-milk ), a favourite beverage with the 

 Kirgis, and also with the inhabitants of the Russian 



