A Canoe Voyage to Northward 



to this little bay, where the beach offered a good land- 

 ing for canoes. A stream which enters it yields abun- 

 dance of salmon, while in the adjacent woods and 

 mountains berries, deer, and wild goats abound. 



"Here,'' he said, "we enjoy peace and plenty; all 

 we lack is a church and a school, particularly a school 

 for the children." His dwelling so much with benevo- 

 lent aspect on the children of the tribe showed, I think, 

 that he truly loved them and had a right intelligent 

 insight concerning their welfare. We spent the night 

 under his roof, the first we had ever spent with Indi- 

 ans, and I never felt more at home. The loving kind- 

 ness bestowed on the little ones made the house glow. 



Next morning, with the hearty good wishes of 

 our Hootsenoo friends, and encouraged by the gentle 

 weather, we sailed gladly up the coast, hoping soon to 

 see the Chilcat glaciers in their glory. The rock here- 

 abouts is mostly a beautiful blue marble, waveworn 

 into a multitude of small coves and ledges. Fine sec- 

 tions were thus revealed along the shore, which with 

 their colors, brightened with showers and late-bloom- 

 ing leaves and flowers, beguiled the weariness of the 

 way. The shingle In front of these marble cliffs Is also 

 mostly marble, well polished and rounded and mixed 

 with a small percentage of glacier-borne slate and 

 granite erratics. 



We arrived at the upper village about half-past one 

 o'clock. Here we saw Hootsenoo Indians in a very 

 different light from that which illumined the lower 

 village. While we were yet half a mile or more away, 

 we heard sounds I had never before heard — a storm 



[ 131 1 



