Travels in Alaska 



their snow and ice and clouds, seem never before to 

 have been even looked at. 



For those who really care to get into hearty contact 

 with the coast region, travel by canoe is by far the 

 better way. The larger canoes carry from one to three 

 tons, rise lightly over any waves likely to be met on 

 the inland channels, go well under sail, and are easily 

 paddled alongshore in calm weather or against 

 moderate winds, while snug harbors where they may 

 ride at anchor or be pulled up on a smooth beach are 

 to be found almost everywhere. With plenty of 

 provisions packed in boxes, and blankets and warm 

 clothing in rubber or canvas bags, you may be truly 

 independent, and enter into partnership with Nature; 

 to be carried with the winds and currents, accept the 

 noble invitations offered all along your way to enter 

 the mountain fiords, the homes of the waterfalls and 

 glaciers, and encamp almost every night beneath 

 hospitable trees. 



I left Fort Wrangell the i6th of August, accom- 

 panied by Mr. Young, in a canoe about twenty-five 

 feet long and five wide, carrying two small square sails 

 and manned by two Stickeen Indians — Captain 

 Tyeen and Hunter Joe — and a half-breed named 

 Smart Billy. The day was calm, and bright, fleecy, 

 clouds hung about the lowest of the mountain-brows, 

 while far above the clouds the peaks were seen 

 stretching grandly away to the northward with their 

 ice and snow shining in as calm a light as that which 

 was falling on the glassy waters. Our Indians wel- 

 comed the work that lay before them, dipping their 



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