2 2 Travels in France 



The post of intendant here was rendered celebrated by being 

 filled by that friend of mankind, Turgot, whose well-earned 

 reputation in this province placed him at the head of the French 

 finances, as may be very agreeably learned in that production, 

 of equal truth and elegance, his life by the Marquis of Condorcet. 

 The character which Turgot left here is considerable. The noble 

 roads we have passed, so much exceeding any other I have seen 

 in France, were amongst his good works; an epithet due to 

 them because not made by corvees. There is here a society of 

 agriculture which owes its origin to the same distinguished 

 patriot: but in that most unlucky path of French exertion he 

 was able to do nothing: evils too radically fixed were in the way 

 of the attempt. This society does like other societies, — they 

 meet, converse, offer premiums, and publish nonsense. This is 

 not of much consequence, for the people, instead of reading their 

 memoirs, are not able to read at all. They can however see ; 

 and if a farm was established in that good cultivation which they 

 ought to copy, something would be presented from which they 

 rnight learn. I asked particularly if the members of this society 

 had land in their own hands, from which it might be judged if 

 they knew anything of the matter themselves: I was assured 

 that they had; but the conversation presently explained it: 

 they had metayers around their country-seats, and this was 

 considered as farming their own lands, so that they assume 

 something of a merit from the identical circumstance which is 

 the curse and ruin of the whole country. In the ag ricult ural 

 conversations we have had on the journey from Orleans, I have 

 not found one person who seemed sensible of the mischiei_of 

 this system. V^^^.-^ \-jX^l '-t l-,_.. v'^-!j-*^''-.> 



lih. No chestmits for a league before we reach Piere Buflfiere, 

 they say because the basis of the country is a hard granite ; and 

 they assert also at Limoge, that in this granite there grow 

 neither vines, wheat, nor chestnuts, but that on the softer 

 gi-anites these plants thrive well : it is true that chestnuts and 

 this granite appeared together when we entered Limosin. The 

 road has been incomparably fine, and more like the well-kept 

 alleys of a garden than a common highway. See for the first time 

 old towers, that appear numerous in this country. — 2)Z rniles. 



Wi. Pass an extraordinary spectacle for English eyes, of 

 many houses too good to be called cottages, without any glass 

 windows. Some miles to the right is Pompadour, where the 

 king has a stud; there are all kinds of horses, but chiefly 

 Arabian, Turkish, and English. Three years ago four Arabians 



