48 



Travels in France 



full to the left, and their roots but a few leagues off. At Carcas- 

 sonne they carried me to a fountain of muddy water, and to a gate 

 of the barracks; but I was better pleased to see several large 

 good houses of manufacturers that show wealth. — 40 miles. 



2nd. Pass a considerable convent with a long line of front, 

 and rise to Fanjour. — 16 miles. 



yd. At Mirepoix they are building a most magnificent 

 bridge of seven flat arches, each of 64 feet span, which will cost 

 1,800,000 livres (£78,750); it has been twelve years erecting, 

 and will be finished in two more. The weather for several days 

 has been as fine as possible, but very hot; to-day the heat was so 

 disagreeable that I rested from twelve to three at Mirepoix; 

 and found it so burning that it was an effort to go half a quarter 

 of a mile to view the bridge. The myriads of flies were ready to 

 devour me, and I could hardly support any light in the room. 

 Rising fatigued me, and I inquired for a carriage of some sort 

 to carry me while these great heats should continue; I had 

 done the same at Carcassonne; but nothing like a cabriolet 

 of any sort was to be had. When it is recollected that that 

 place is one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in 

 France containing 15,000 people, and that Mirepoix is far from 

 being a mean place, and yet not a voiture of any kind to be had, 

 how will an Englishman bless himself for the universal conveni- 

 ences that are spread through his own country, in which I 

 believe there is not a town of 1500 people in the kingdom where 

 post-chaises and able horses are not to be had at a moment's 

 warning } What a contrast ! This confirms the fact deducible 

 from the little traffic on the roads even around Paris itself. 

 Circulation is stagnant in France. — The heat was so great that 

 I left Mirepoix disordered with it : this was by far the hottest 

 day that I ever felt. The hemisphere seemed almost in a 

 flame with burning rays that rendered it impossible to turn one's 

 eyes within many degrees of the radiant orb that now blazed in 

 the heavens. — Cross another fine new bridge of three arches; 

 and come to a woodland, the first I have seen for a great distance. 

 Many vines about Pamiers, which is situated in a beautiful vale, 

 upon a fine river. The place itself is ugly, stinking, and ill built; 

 with an inn! Adieu, Monsieur Gascit ; if fate sends me to such 

 another house as thine — be it an expiation for my sins! — 28 

 miles. 



4/A. Leaving Amous there is the extraordinary spectacle 

 of a river issuing out of a cavern in a mountain of rock; on 

 crossing the hill you see where it enters by another cavern. — It 



