Aguillon S5 



may judge by the building of new houses. The Clef d'Or is a 

 large, new, and good inn. 



In the 270 miles from Bagnere de Luchon to Auch, a general 

 observation I may make is, that the whole, with very few 

 exceptions, is enclosed; and that the farmhouses are every- 

 where scattered, instead of being, as in so many parts of France, 

 collected in towns. I have seen scarcel}'' any gentlemen's 

 country seats that seem at all modern; and, in general, they 

 are thin to a surprising degree. I have not met with one country 

 equipage, nor anything like a gentleman riding to see a neighbour. 

 Scarcely a gentleman at all. At Auch, met by appointment my 

 friends, oh their return to Paris. The town is almost without 

 manufactures or commerce, and is supported chiefly by the rents 

 of the country. But they have many of the noblesse in the 

 province, too poor to live here ; some indeed so poor that they 

 plough their own fields; and these may possibly be much more 

 estimable members of society than the fools and knaves that 

 laugh at them. — 31 miles. 



20th. Pass Fleuran, which contains many good houses, and 

 go through a populous country to La Tour,^ a bishopric, the 

 diocesan of which we left at Bagnere de Luchon. The situation 

 is beautiful on the point of a ridge of hills. — 20 miles. 



22nd. By Leyrac, through a fine country, to the Garonne, 

 which we cross by a ferry. This river is here a quarter of a mile 

 broad, with every appearance of commerce. A large barge 

 passed loaded with cages of poultry; of such consequence 

 throughout the extent of this navigation is the consumption of 

 the great city of Bourdeaux. The rich vale continues to Agen, 

 and is very highly cultivated: but has not the beauty of the 

 environs of Leitour. If new buildings are a criterion of the 

 flourishing state of a place, Agen prospers. The bishop has 

 raised a magnificent palace, the centre of which is in good taste ; 

 but the junction with the wings not equally happy. — 23 miles. 



23^^^. Pass a rich and highly cultivated vale to Aguillon; 

 much hemp, and every woman in the country employed on it. 

 Many neat well built farmhouses on small properties, and all 

 the country very populous. View the chateau of the Due 

 d 'Aguillon, which, being in the town, is badly situated, according 

 to all rural ideas; but a town is ever an accompaniment of a 

 chateau in France, as it was formerly in most parts of Europe; 

 it seems to have resulted from a feudal arrangement that the 

 Grand Seigneur might keep his slaves the nearer to his call, as 



' Lectoure, 



