Bourdeaux ^y 



shore; parts without pavement, encumbered with filth and 

 stones; barges He here for loading and unloading the ships 

 which cannot approach to what should be a quay. Here is all 

 the dirt and disagreeable circumstances of trade without the 

 order, arrangement, and magnificence of a quay. Barcelona is 

 unique in this respect. When I presumed to find fault with the 

 buildings on the river, it must not be supposed that I include 

 the whole; the crescent which is in the same line is better. The 

 place royale, with the statue of Louis XV. in the middle, is a 

 fine opening, and the buildings which form it regular and hand- 

 some. But the quarter of the chapeau rouge is truly magnificent, 

 consisting of noble houses, built, like the rest of the city, of 

 white hewn stone. It joins the chateau tronipette, which 

 occupies near half a mile of the shore. This fort is bought of 

 the king by a company of speculators, who are now pulling it 

 down with an intention of building a fine square and many new 

 streets, to the amount of 1800 houses. I have seen a design of 

 the square and the streets, and it would, if executed, be one of 

 the most splendid additions to a city that is to be seen in Europe. 

 This great work stands still at present through a fear of re- 

 sumptions. The theatre, built about ten or twelve years ago, 

 is by far the most magnificent in France. I have seen nothing 

 that approaches it. The building is insulated and fills up a 

 space of 306 feet by 165, one end being the principal front, con- 

 taining a portico the whole length of it of twelve very large 

 Corinthian columns. The entrance from this portico is by a 

 noble vestibule, which leads not only to the different parts of the 

 theatre, but also to an elegant oval concert room and saloons 

 for walking and refreshments. The theatre itself is of a vast 

 size; in shape the segment of an oval. The establishment of 

 actors, actresses, singers, dancers, orchestra, etc., speak the 

 wealth and luxury of the place. I have been assured that from 

 30 to 50 louis a night have been paid to a favourite actress from 

 Paris. Larrive, the first tragic actor of that capital, is now 

 here at 500 livres (£21 12s. 6d.) a night, with two benefits. 

 Dauberval, the dancer and his wife (the Mademoiselle Theodore 

 of London), are retained as principal ballet-master and first 

 female dancer at a salary of 28,000 livTes (£1225). Pieces are 

 performed every night, Sundays not excepted, as everywhere in 

 France. The mode of living that takes place here among mer- 

 chants is highly luxurious. Their houses and establishments are 

 on expensive scales. Great entertainments, and many served 

 on plate : high play is a much worse thing ; and the scandalous 



