I 20 Travels in France 



view of Rouen sudden and striking; but the road doubling in 

 order to turn more gently down the hill, presents from an elbow 

 the finest view of a town I have ever seen ; the whole city, with 

 all its churches and convents and its cathedral proudly rising in 

 the midst, fills the vale. The river presents one reach crossed by 

 the bridge, and then dividing into two fine channels forms a 

 large island covered with wood ; the rest of the vale of verdure 

 and cultivation, of gardens and habitations, finish the scene, in 

 perfect unison with the great city that forms the capital feature. 

 Wait on Monsieur d'Ainbournay, secretary of the society of 

 agriculture, who was absent when I was here before; we had an 

 interesting conversation on agriculture, and on the means of 

 encouraging it. I found, from this very ingenious gentleman, 

 that his plan of using madder green, which many years ago made 

 so much noise in the agricultural world, is not practised at present 

 anywhere; but he continues to think it perfectly practicable. 

 In the evening to the play, where Madame Cretal, from Paris, 

 acted Nina; and it proved the richest treat I have received 

 from the French theatre. She performed it with an inimitable 

 expression, with a tenderness, a naivete, and an elegance withal 

 that mastered every feeling of the heart against which the piece 

 was written : her expression is as delicious as her countenance is 

 beautiful ; in her acting nothing overcharged, but all kept within 

 the simplicity of nature. The house was crowded, garlands of 

 flowers and laurel were thrown on the stage, and she was crowned 

 by the other actors, but modestly removed them from her head 

 as often as they were placed there. — 20 miles. 



i^ih. Take the road to Dieppe. Meadows in the vale well 

 watered and hay now making. Sleep at Tote.— 17^ miles. 



i^th. To Dieppe. I was lucky enough to find the passage- 

 boat ready to sail; go on board with my faithful sure-footed 

 blind friend. I shall probably never ride her again, but all my 

 feelings prevent my selling her in France. — Without eyes she 

 has carried me in safety above 1500 miles; and for the rest of 

 her life she shall have no other master than myself ; could I afTord 

 it this should be her last labour: some ploughing, however, on 

 my farm she will perform for me, I dare say, cheerfully. 



Landing at the neat new-built town of Brighthelmstone,^ offers 

 a much greater contrast to Dieppe, which is old and dirty, than 

 Dover does to Calais : and in the castle inn I seemed for a while 

 to be in fairy land ; but I paid for the enchantment. The next 

 day to Lord Sheffield's, a house I never go to but to receive equal 



1 Brighton. 



