2 20 Travels in France 



nicious one, and so contrary to the personal interests of the men 

 who governed England, that it was not to be thought of. He 

 replied that if we did not do it, we should be marvellously for- 

 bearing, and set an example of political purity sufficient to 

 eternise that part of our national character, in which the world 

 thought us most deficient, moderation. He complained bitterly 

 of the conduct of certain leaders of the National Assembly, who 

 seemed to be determined on a bankruptcy, and perhaps a civil 

 war. He gave me a list of many good inns in Lombardy, and 

 advice respecting travelling.- — 22 miles. 



16/A. At Cannes I was quite without a choice; no post- 

 house, carriage, nor horses, nor mules to let; I was therefore 

 forced again to take refuge in a woman and her ass. At five in 

 the morning I walked to Antibes. This line of nine miles is 

 chiefly cultivated, but the mountains rise so immediately that, 

 in a general idea, all is waste. Antibes being a frontier tov/n is 

 regularly fortified; the mole is pretty, and the view from it 

 pleasing. Take a post-chaise to Nice: cross the Var, and bid 

 adieu for the present to France. The approach to Nice is 

 pleasing. But am I judge ? The first approach to that country 

 so long and justly celebrated that has produced the men who 

 have conquered, and those who have decorated the world, fills 

 the bosom with too many throbbing feelings to permit a bush, 

 a stone, a clod to be uninteresting. Our percipient faculties 

 are expanded; we wish to enjoy; and then all is attention, and 

 willingness to be pleased. The approach marks a flourishing 

 town; new buildings, the never-failing mark of prosperity, are 

 numerous. Pass many gardens full of oranges. Arrive in time 

 for dinner at the table d'hote, hotel de quatre nations, and agree 

 with the master of it for my apartment, which is exceedingly 

 good, and dinner and supper at 5 Piedmontese livres a-day, that 

 is 5s. Here I am, then, in the midst of another people, language, 

 sovereignty, and country — one of the moments of a man's life 

 that will always be interesting, because all the springs of curiosity 

 and attention are on the stretch. Several Frenchmen, but more 

 Italians, at the table d'hote; and the French revolution only 

 talked of. The Frenchmen all in favour of it, and the Italians 

 all against it, and absolute victors in the argument. — 25 miles. 



I'jth. I have no letters for Nice; and therefore, knowing 

 nothing of the insides of the houses, I must be content with what 

 meets the eye. The new part of the town is very well built; 

 the streets straight and broad. The sea-view is fine, and, for 

 enjoying it in greater perfection, they have an admirable con- 



