Milan 237 



jets d'eau, temples ^ colonnades, and buildings, without end, almost 

 connected with the house; latticed and clipped bowers and 

 walks; miles of clipped hedges — terraces and gravel walks, never 

 well kept, with abundance of orange trees, are the features ; and 

 they are all in profusion. The expense enormous, both to form 

 and to keep. There is a pinery, and not more than five or six 

 others in the whole duchy of Milan. Reach Mozzata. The 

 countess appeared what we call a genteel good sort of a woman, 

 with nothing of that species of foppery and affectation that forms 

 the fine lady. The moment I saw the Count deCastiglione, I was 

 prejudiced in his favour; his physiognomy is pleasing; and the 

 instantaneous easy affability, mixed with great quickness and 

 vivacity, tells one in a moment that time would not be lost in 

 his company. I was not deceived. He entered presently on the 

 object of my travels; and I was highly pleased to find that he 

 was a practical farmer. After dinner we made an excursion to 

 a considerable plantation he has executed with great judgment 

 and spirit. The count showed me also a part of his farm, — but 

 this is not equally successful. In the evening, v/hile the rest of 

 the company were at cards, he satisfied my numerous inquiries 

 concerning the husbandry, etc., of the neighbourhood, in a 

 manner that left me little to wish. After breakfast, the next 

 morning, returned to Milan. The feature which struck me 

 most in this visit to an Italian nobleman, at his country seat, 

 is the great similarity of living and of manners in different 

 countries. There are few circumstances in the table, attendance, 

 house, and mode of living that vary from a man of similar rank 

 and fortune in England or France. Only French customs, 

 however, predominate. I suppose one must go for new manners 

 to the Turks and Tartars ; for Spain itself, among people of rank, 

 has them not to give: and this circumstance throws travellers, 

 who register their remarks, into a situation that should meet 

 with the candour of readers : those who record faithfully must 

 note things that are common, and such are not formed to gratify 

 curiosity. Those who deal much in adventures so contrary to 

 our own manners as to excite surprise, must be of questionable 

 authority; for the similarity of European manners among people 

 of rank or large fortune can hardly be doubted : and the differ- 

 ence among their inferiors is in many cases more apparent than 

 real. I am much pleased with this family: the countess is a 

 good woman, for she loves her children, her husband, and the 

 country. Her husband has life, animation, quickness of con- 

 ception, and that attention to agriculture which made me wish 



