256 Travels in Italy 



mountains. The country seems everywhere a wood. Nothing 

 rivals the view of the city and the isles. It is the most beautiful, 

 and by far the most singular that I have seen. The breadth of 

 the Giudecca canal, spread with ships and boats, and walled by 

 many noble buildings, with the isles distinct from Venice, of 

 which the eye takes in four-and-twenty, form, upon the whole, 

 a coup deceit that exceeds probably everything the world has to 

 exhibit. The city, in general, has some beautiful features, but 

 does not equal the idea I had formed of it from the pictures of 

 Canaletti. A poor old gothic house makes a fine figure on canvas. 

 The irregularity of front is greater perhaps than in any other 

 city of equal importance; nowhere preserved for three houses 

 together. You have a palace of three magnificent stories, and 

 near it a hovel of one. Hence, there is not that species of mag- 

 nificence which results from uniformity; or from an uninter- 

 rupted succession of considerable edifices. As to streets, 

 properly so called, there is nothing similar to them in the world; 

 12 feet is a broad one ; I measured the breadth of many that were 

 only 4 and 5. The greater part of the canals, which are here 

 properly the streets, are so narrow, as much to take off from the 

 beauty of the buildings that are upon them. St. Mark's place 

 has been called the finest square in Europe, which is a fine 

 exaggeration. It appears large because every other space is 

 small. The buildings, however, that surround it are some of 

 them fine ; but they are more interesting than beautiful. This 

 spot is the immediate seat and heart of one of the most celebrated 

 republics that has existed. St. Mark's church, the Doge's 

 palace, the library, the Doge himself, the nobles, the famous 

 casinos, the coffee-houses: thus St. Mark's square is the seat 

 of government, of politics, and of intrigue. What Venice offers 

 of power and pleasure may be sought here; and you can use 

 your legs commodiously nowhere else. Venice shines in churches, 

 palaces, and one fine square ; and the beauty of the large canals 

 is great. \Vhat she wants are good common houses, that mark 

 the wealth and ease of the people; instead of which the major 

 part are gothic, that seem almost as old as the republic. Of 

 modern houses there are few — and of new ones fewer; a sure 

 proof that the state is not flourishing. Take it, however, on 

 the whole, and it is a most noble city; certainly the most 

 singular to be met with in the world. The canal of the Giudecca, 

 and the grand canal, are unri\'alled in beauty and magnificence. 

 Four gi-eat architects have contributed their talents for the fine 

 buildings to be met with here; — Palladio, St. Micheli, Sansovino, 



