Venice 257 



and Scamozzi. The church of St. Georgio Maggiore, by the first, 

 is of a noble simplicity ; and that of St. Maria della Saluta/ of St. 

 Micheli, has parts of admirable beauty; he seems always happy 

 in his domes ; and the portal of this church is truly elegant. If 

 a genius were to arise at present at Venice, as great as Palladio, 

 how would he find employment ? The taste of building churches 

 is over: the rich nobles have otherways of spending their incomes. 

 Great edifices are usually raised by newly acquired fortunes; 

 there are now either none or too inconsiderable to decorate the 

 city. In England all animated vigour of exertion is among 

 individuals who aim much more at comfort within than mag- 

 nificence without ; and for want of public spirit and police a new 

 city has arisen at London, built of baked mud and ashes, rather 

 than bricks; without symmetry, or beauty, or duration; but 

 distinguished by its cleanness, convenience, and arrangement. 

 At a prova, or rehearsal of a new opera, // Burbero benefico, by 

 Martini of Vienna, much to mv entertainment. 



yd. To the arsenal, in which there is very little indeed worth 

 the trouble of viewing; travellers have given dreadful exaggera- 

 tions of it: the number of ships, frigates, and galleys is inconsider- 

 able; and I came out of this famous arsenal with a much meaner 

 opinion of the Venetian naval force than I had entered it. Yet 

 they say there are 3000 men constantly employed : if there are 

 half the number, what are they about? The armoury is well 

 arranged, clean, and in good order. The famous bucenianr is 

 a heavy, ill built, ugly gilded monster, with none of that light 

 airy elegance which a decorated yacht has. A thing made for 

 pleasure only should have at least an agreeable physiognomy. 

 I know nothing of the ceremony so good as Shenstone's stanza, 

 comparing the \-anity of the Doge's splendour on that day with the 

 real enjoyment which a hermit on her shore has of his ducal cara 

 sposa. The ships in this arsenal, even of 88 guns, are built under 

 cover; and this is not so great an expense as might be thought; 

 the buildings are only two thick brick walls, with a very light 

 roof : but the expense is probably much more than saved in the 

 duration of the ship. I mounted by the scaffolds and entered 

 one of 88 guns that has been 25 years building, and is not above 

 four-fifths finished at present. At the opera. — The sex of 

 Venice are undoubtedly of a distinguished beauty; their com- 

 plexions are delicate, and for want of rouge the French think 

 them pale; but it is not person, nor complexion, nor features 

 that are the characteristic; it is expression and physiognomy; 

 ^ This church is by Longhena. 



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