Florence 281 



this gentleman, cure of that parish, had been mentioned to me 

 as the most practical writer on agriculture in this part of Italy, 

 having resided always in the country, and with the reputation 

 of being an excellent farmer. We found him at home, and 

 passed a very instructive day, viewing his farm and receiving 

 much information. But I must note that to this expression. 

 farm, must not be annexed the EngHshidea; for Signore Paoletti's 

 consist of three poderi, that is, of three houses, each with a farmer 

 and his family, alia Meia, who cultivates the ground and has half 

 the produce. It is unnecessary to observe that whenever this is 

 the case the common husbandry, good or bad, must be pursued. 

 It will surprise my English readers to find that the most practical 

 wxiter at Florence of great reputation, and very deservedly so, 

 has no other than a metayer farm. But let it not be thought the 

 least reflection on Signore Paoletti, since he classes, in this respect, 

 with his sovereign, whose farms are in the same regimen. Sig- 

 nore Paoletti's maples for vines appeared to be trained with much 

 more attention than common in Tuscany, and his olives were 

 in good order. This day has given me a specimen of the winter 

 climate of Italy; I never felt such a cold piercing wind in Eng- 

 land. Some snow fell; and I could scarcely keep myself from 

 freezing by walking four or five miles an hour. All water not 

 in motion from its current or the wind was ice ; and the icicles 

 from the dripping springs in the hills were two feet long. In 

 England when a fierce N.E. wind blows in a sharp frost we have 

 such weather; but for the month of November I believe such 

 a day has not been felt in England since its creation. The pro- 

 vision of the Florentines against such weather is truly ridiculous : 

 they have not chimneys in more than half the rooms of common 

 houses; and those they do not use; not because they are not 

 cold, for they go shivering about with chattering teeth with an 

 idea of warmth from a few wood ashes or embers in an earthen 

 pan ; and another contrivance for their feet to rest upon. Wood 

 is very dear, therefore this miserable succedaneum is for economy. 

 Thank God for the coal fires of England, with a climate less 

 severe by half than that of Italy. I would have all nations love 

 their country; but there are few more worthy of such affection 

 than our blessed isle, from which no one will ever travel, but 

 to return with feelings fresh strung for pleasure and a capacity 

 renovated by a thousand comparisons for the enjo^nnent of it. 



26th. To the Palazzo Pitti. I have often read about ideal 

 grace in painting, which I never well comprehended till I saw 

 the Madona della Sedia of Raphael. I do not think either of 



