Piacenza 295 



the whole family, with six or eight women and children, their 

 neighbours, were in the stable, sitting on forms fronting each 

 other in two lines, on a space paved and clean, in the middle of 

 the room, between two rows of oxen and cows: it was most 

 disagreeably hot on entering. They stay there till they go to 

 bed, sometimes till midnight. This practice is universal in 

 Lombardy. Dine with the Count de Schafhenatti, who lives 

 entirely in the country with his wife. He showed me his farm, 

 and I examined his dairy, where cheeses are made nearly in the 

 same way and with the same implements as in the Lodesan; 

 these cheeses may therefore, with as much propriety, be called 

 Parmesan as those that come from Lodi. My friend, the Abbate 

 Amoretti, having other engagements in this countr}', I here took 

 leave of him with regret. — 14 miles. 



nth. Having agreed with a vetturino to take me to Turin, and 

 he not being able to procure another passenger, I went alone to 

 Firenzola. It is fine sunshine weather, decisively warmer than 

 ever felt in England at this season : a sharp frost, without affect- 

 ing the extremities as with us, where cold fingers and toes may 

 be classed among the nuisances of our climate. I walked most of 

 the way. The face of the country is the same as before, but vines 

 decrease after Borgo St. Domino. An inequality in the surface 

 of the country begins also to appear, and everywhere a scattering 

 of oak-timber, which is a new feature. — 20 miles. 



12th. Early in the morning to Piacenza, that I might have 

 time to view that city, which, however, contains little worthy of 

 attention to any but those who study painting as connoisseurs. 

 The country changed a good deal to-day. It is like the flat rich 

 parts of Essex and Suffolk. Houses are thinner, and the general 

 face inferior. The inequalities which began yesterda)'^ increase. 

 — The two equestrian statues of Alexandre and Rannutio 

 Farnese are finely expressive of life; the motion of the horses, 

 particularly that of Alexander's, is admirable; and the whole 

 performance spirited and alive. They are by John of Bologna, 

 or Moca his eleve. Sleep at Castel St. Giovanne. — 26 miles. 



i2,th. Cross a brook, two miles distant, and enter the Kang of 

 Sardinia's territory, where the skulls of two robbers, who, about 

 two months ago, robbed the courier of Rome, are immediately 

 seen: this is an agreeable object that strikes us at our entrance 

 into any part of the Piedmontese dominions, the inhabitants 

 having in this respect an ill reputation throughout all Italy, 

 much to the disgrace of the government. The country, to 

 Tortona, is all hill and dale ; and being cultivated \vith an inter- 



