Orchard Planting 



Experience in Florida, where budded avocados have been 

 grown for ten years, has shown that budding tends to dwarf 

 the tree, and that budded trees require much less space than 

 seedlings. They should be planted about 25x25 feet, and culti- 

 vated in the usual orchard fashion. Prune to form a symmetrical 

 head, cutting out all weak and undesirable growth each year. 

 The top may be kept trimmed back to facilitate picking. 



The tree thrives best in a loose, well drained, sandy loam. 

 A clay or heavy adobe soil that is not well drained is not suitable 

 for its best development. 



It is advised to fertilize the first three years with 1 to 3 

 pounds per tree of commercial fertilizer containing 3% nitrogen, 

 5% phosphoric acid, and 5% potash. After the third year, when 

 the trees have come into bearing, a fertilizer containing 5% 

 nitrogen, 6% phosphoric acid, and 12% potash should be used 

 in about the same amount, increasing the amount each year until 

 the full bearing capacity is reached. 



Irrigate the same as for oranges. 



Transplanting is best done in early spring, after the cold 

 weather of winter has hardened the wood and before the trees 

 have started into new growth, usually from March 1 to April 

 15, according to locality and season. 



Mexican avocados will stand as much frost as the orange, 

 some varieties a little more. If planted in locations subject to 

 heavy frosts, some winter protection should be given the trees 

 for the first two years. The danger from frosts lies not so much, 

 however, in the injury done to the trees as in the freezing of 

 the blossoms of the early-blooming varieties. In frosty dis- 

 tricts, therefore, plant only the late-blooming (winter bearing) 

 varieties, and in this way safety will be secured. 



What better investment could be made than a large and 

 scientifically managed avocado plantation, with only the best 

 and most approved stock planted therein ? David L. Crawford. 



