LOCATING THE CITRUS GROVE. 231 



a very desirable tree to use in the more exposed sections. 

 It does not do well on high, dry soils. The Australian 

 pine is also subject to frost injury and should be planted 

 only in the southern portion of the State. Where frosts 

 do not prevail, the Mexican lime planted as a hedge and 

 allowed to attain a height of ten to twelve feet is quite 

 desirable. 



Preferably the wind-break should be planted at the 

 same time as the grove. In any case, it will be found 

 necessary to ditch the ground between the line of wind- 

 break and the first tree row, to prevent the roots of the 

 wind-break from spreading out into the grove and depriv- 

 ing the citrus trees of food and moisture. This ditch may 

 be filled up again after cutting the roots, if so desired, 

 but will need to be opened up and the roots cut back 

 again every third or fourth year. It need not be wide, 

 a foot or fifteen inches is sufficient, with sufficient depth 

 to cut off the surface feeding roots. 



Generally speaking, an exposure opening to the south 

 is best for citrus trees, but in frosty districts it is advisa- 

 ble to plant on the south or east side of a lake or other 

 body of water as already stated, in which case the grove 

 should be set on ground sloping toward the lake. 



In irrigation districts a piece of ground should not 

 be selected which cannot be irrigated, and the prospective 

 planter should assure himself that the available supply 

 will always be ample for his needs. Many failures have 

 resulted because this rule was not observed. As one 

 writer has expressed it, "find water, then find a piece of 

 ground to put it on." 



The insect problem is one to which some considera- 

 tion may be given. The insects affecting citrus fruits are 

 pretty well distributed and it is perhaps not too much to 



