30 INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF VITICULTURE 



considered as the only standard wine in the new world as of the Euro- 

 pean type. 



When we were experimenting with our different grapes we were watch- 

 ing the development of each variety. The business at that time was an 

 interesting study; in fact, we would bring out different types of foreign 

 wines and see how closely we could produce wines of the same type. I 

 recollect when Mr. Tubbs brought back from Europe the Merlots, Beclans 

 and Cabernets, which we would ferment and blend to the types of the wines 

 produced in the Chateau Leoville district, keeping each variety intact. We 

 would also use a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cabernet Franc in a blend with 

 a Gamay, and I remember where we experimented with the Semillon, Sau- 

 vignon Blanc and Muscatelle de Bordelais, producing a wine equal to any of 

 the Sauterne type. 



In handling each one of two different varieties, we would use a screen 

 for a stemmer and would have a hani crusher, watching the fermentation 

 even in barrels. After the vintage v.e always wanted to see each variety 

 kept by itself and wanted to do our own blending. In fact, wines at that 

 time were being made along lines similar to those in small cellars of Europe 

 to-day. The Beam Pres's was also in vogue at that time and doubtless could 

 still be found in use in some of the grape-growing centers of Sonoma. 



There was a certain infatuation to wine making in those days and also 

 in the blending and maturing of wines; there was also a certain individuality 

 along the lines of working. Old oak casks we would look upon as old 

 acquaintances, and if we wanted to mature a wine in a cask that previously 

 contained an old flavor, we would always treasure that package. The advent 

 of the large blending redwood tank has taken away the picturesque and the 

 sentiment out of the wine business, but we will have to admit that the 

 average of the California wines as produced to-day is far in advance of the 

 many sour tanks that we encountered in the olden times. 



The Mission grape, which was no doubt transplanted to this country by 

 the padres, was found to adapt itself to our soil and climatic conditions and 

 from this grape was produced the first wine that made California known as a 

 wine-producing section. The Angelica made from this grape has never been 

 excelled by wine produced from any other variety, and as a general utility 

 grape we have never had any other to take its place. The white wine pro- 

 duced from it, while taking longer to mature, developed qualities equal to 

 some of the finest German types, the saccharine in these grapes always 

 maturing to not less than 24 degrees sugar. The Sherry made from these 

 grapes also produced a fine quality, and the Brandies were always considered 

 desirable. In a blend as a Port wine it always met with favor. In fact, the 

 only wine that we could not produce was a Claret. I can safely say that 

 even to-day these Mission grapes should be replanted in the sweet wine 

 district. 



In former days when our cellars, fermenting houses and machinery were 

 not so perfected, nor the control of fermentation so well in hand as it is at 

 present, many mistakes were made and as a consequence the introduction 

 of California wines to the Eastern market was not an easy task. Another 

 fault found with our wines in those days was the complaint on red wines, or 

 clarets, they being criticized as having an "earthy" taste. Whether this was 

 due to the newness of the soil or the variety of the grapes planted in those 



