19 



tight. At the end of three weeks the string is removed and part of 

 the top of the stock is cut back to force the bud to start. As the bud 

 grows the foliage of the stock is gradually removed, until the bud is 

 able to take up the entire flow of sap; it is then left to grow, and 

 trained as shown in Figure No. 24. When the bud has grown and 

 become stocky, what remains of the stock above the bud is cut smooth, 

 close to the bud, to allow it to heal over. This process is performed 

 at any time of the year when the sap flows freely. If done late in the 

 summer the buds must be left to lie dormant through the winter. 

 Best results are obtained when the buds are inserted early in the 

 spring of the year, as the operation can be performed to a much better 

 advantage, and the buds will grow to some height before the winter 

 months set in. When inserted in large orchard trees, or in limbs of 

 large trees, they are left to grow until they have attained such a size 

 as will justify in the removal of the entire top. 



EYE BUDDING. 



This new method of "eye budding "has been brought into practice 

 by Mr. Charles A. Wetmore, of Li verm ore, President of the Board of 

 State Viti cultural Commissioners, although a similar method has been 

 practiced, but not on the olive, called ring budding, and differs from 

 the fact that the bark of the stock is not used to protect the bud, as 

 in this method. In this method the bud is removed (every leaf is a 

 bud) as shown in Figure No. 25. The leaf is cut off close to the bud, 

 then the bud is removed, as shown in the illustration (the buds do 

 not grow where the bud is removed, as shown in Figure No. 25; this 

 is only intended to show how the buds are removed from the scion), 

 and a similar cut is made in the stock. The lower part is not cut, 

 but the flap (or bark) is turned down, and the bud inserted, as shown 

 in Figures Nos. 26 and 27. It does not matter if the buds do not fit 

 (the bud should always be a little smaller than the space in which it 

 is inserted). This being done, the flap (or bark) is turned up, covering 

 the bud entirely; then it is tied tight with heavy twine. The twine 

 for this purpose should not be less than eighteen ply. The success of 

 the operation lies in the tying. If it should not be tied tight the bud 

 will surely die. Mr. Wetmore found that the best way was to throw 

 the twine in water, and tie it while wet. After the bud has been in- 

 serted two weeks, the string is removed, and a week or so after that 

 the tree is girdled above the bud, to force it to start. This girdling 

 consists of a ring of bark being removed from the stock, being cut an 

 inch or so above the bud. Care should be taken not to injure (by 

 scraping) the wood after the ring is removed, as this would kill the 

 inner bark, and cause the tree to die back before the bud has had a 

 chance to start. After the bud has started it is trained to the stock, 

 and left to grow until large enough to justify the removing of the 

 entire top, and allow the bud to become the tree. 



Time of Budding. The best time is in early spring and through the 

 summer, when the sap flows freely. 



AN IMPROVED METHOD. 



Mr. Wetmore discovered that by making a cut in the shape of an 

 H and raising the bark from the center crosscut (up and down) and 



