20 



the bud inserted, as shown in Figure No. 28, that both ends of the bud 

 became protected, while in the other method only one. 



He considers this an improvement, as it also has the advantage 

 that large buds having a large bulge at the leaf part can be used to 

 an advantage, while they cannot in the method previously described. 



OBSERVATIONS. 



At the orchard of Mr. Wetmore. I saw trees of nearly every size, 

 varying from one to six inches in diameter, that had been budded a 

 year and two years. Some of the buds were very large arid had grown 

 to a height of about four feet, and were in trees that at the time were 

 loaded with fruit. Mr. Wetmore intends to leave his trees bear another 

 year, when he will allow the buds to take the place of the top; he also 

 expects some of these buds to bear fruit the coming season, and I 

 believe they will, because alongside of them were trees loaded with 

 fruit, that were not as large as the growth of the buds. 



GRAFTING. 



Cleft Graft. This method is similar to the one used by orchardists, 

 only that the cut in the stock is not made in the center, as in the old 

 way. The cut is made from either side, as shown in Figure No. 30. 

 The graft is cut trom both sides, as in the old way, to be large at the 

 surface side and thin at the inner; then it is inserted into the stock, 

 as shown in Figure No. 31. The graft is driven down as far as it 

 will go, and is made to fit exactly (both barks to be even) on the 

 surface side, the other side does not matter, as the unit of the graft 

 and stock is on the surface side. In time, both sides heal over. 

 After the graft is inserted it must be tied and waxed, and if the oper- 

 ation is performed in the field, it must be covered up with earth, 

 leaving as little of the graft exposed as possible. The entire leaves 

 on the grafts must not be cut off, at least one third of the leaf must 

 be left (as shown in Figure No. 31) to prevent the graft from drying 

 before it has had time to unite with the stock, also the entire leaf 

 must not be allowed to remain on the graft; the trimming of the 

 leaf prevents it from carrying off too rapidly the fluids of evapora- 

 tion. In this method one point must be observed, and that is the 

 manner in which the cut in the stock is to be made. If due precau- 

 tions are not taken and the cut be made in the center of the stock, 

 the stock will crack at the time the graft is inserted and a perfect fit 

 cannot be had. The more the graft is pushed down into the stock 

 the more the stock will crack below the point of the graft; this results 

 in the loss of the entire tree. 



Time of Grafting. The best time to graft the olive is through the 

 summer months. The operation can be performed at any time when 

 the trees (stock) are putting forth new growth. It must be borne in 

 mind that this method is for grafting stock close to the ground. It 

 may do above ground, but for that purpose budding is the simplest 

 and best. 



INDOOR GRAFTING. 



This method, as illustrated in Figures Nos. 32, 33, and 34, is prac- 

 ticed mostly indoor, in the greenhouse, or under frames. The stock 

 is not entirely cut off, as shown in the illustration, but about one 



