6 



once be cut down, the wood put into marketable form, and all 

 brush, and if possible all patches of diseased bark, burned at the 

 first opportunity. If this is not done, the down tree merely 

 becomes a center of infection for the rest of the woods, as it is 

 known that the fungus may live on dead bark for at least six 

 months after cutting. 



In answer to the question as to whether sprouts from the 

 stumps of infected trees that have been cut will also themselves 

 be infected, it should be said that for the first year at least they 

 will not be, but after that they should be carefully examined for 

 signs of the disease. 



TREATMENT OTHER THAN CUTTING. 

 Spraying. 



Experiments have shown it to be a matter of doubt as to 

 whether the spraying of infected trees is of any avail against 

 this fungus. It is possible, however, that in the case of valuable 

 shade trees very frequent sprayings might have a tendency 

 toward preventing infection. 



Broken limbs, wounds, cracks and crotches of branches are 

 fruitful sources of attack, and the fungus should be looked for at 

 these points. 



Local Cutting of Infected Spots. 



The other method of individual treatment that has proved suc- 

 cessful, though only in the case of valuable trees, where the ex- 

 pense was warranted, is the one of cutting and removing all 

 patches of diseased bark and carefully protecting the exposed 

 surface with a coat of tar or paint. This treatment must be 

 thorough, and even then it will do no good if the disease has 

 progressed too far. Infected branches should be removed alto- 

 gether, at a good distance below the point of infection, and any 

 bark cutting should be done at least an inch beyond and outside 

 of the discolored area, which shows the location of the fungus. 



A tree that has been already girdled should be cut down at 

 once, and trees under treatment should be inspected f requently,. 

 say about June 1, July 15 and September 1, or oftener in wet 

 weather. 



