HORTICULTURE 73 



The very first consideration in top-pruning is the height of the 

 head. It is not always possible to secure the head at the desired 

 height, but if the directions under "Ordering Nursery Stock" are fol- 

 lowed, but little difficulty will be experienced in this regard. Some- 

 times it is necessary to remove better branches to secure the desired 

 head than some which are to be left, but if those left are average, 

 then the lower heading is to be preferred. The number of branches 

 to be left, and their position, depends somewhat on the character of 

 the top desired. There are two forms of tops used : the open or vase 

 form, and the close centered. Where the growing season is short, 

 the open centered form is most desirable. This means that in 

 pruning the central leader or the branch making the upright growth 

 from the center should be cut out. 



Too many main branches are usually left. Four are sufficient 

 and frequently three on strong growing trees will be enough to give 

 a good top. If too many branches are left at the start, the top becomes 

 too thick, necessitating the removal of one or more later on. This 

 can seldom be done after the second year's growth without injury to 

 the form of the tree. The removal of a large branch after this period 

 leaves a hole in the side of the tree which is difficult to fill. Had the 

 branch been removed in the first pruning, the others would have 

 filled in the space, and the tree would have been symmetrical. 



The branches which are chosen should be as nearly equally 

 distributed around the tree as possible. If they are unevenly dis- 

 tributed and the space wide, they should be so pruned as to throw 

 the growth from the top bud of each of the adjoining branches into 

 the vacant space. Avoid having the branches come out from the 

 trunk too close together. They can extend along the trunk for 18 

 inches, and although they may appear spaced too far at first, when 

 the tree has reached the bearing age, and the branches have devel- 

 oped, they will be close enough together. Choosing branches which 

 arise at practically the same height gives bad crotches which are 

 liable to become sources of trouble later on. Avoid as much as pos- 

 sible V-shaped crotches. They are weak and the branches are very 

 likely to split down under high winds or heavy loads of fruit. Some 

 varieties are prone to this form of crotch, and therefore should be 

 given extra attention in this respect. 



Cutting Back the Top. No point in top-pruning after planting 

 is more discussed and disagreed upon than the extent of cutting back 

 of the branches chosen for the foundation of the head. All agree 

 that they should be cut back somewhat in order that the new 

 branches may be forced out nearer the head of the tree. If not cut 

 back the buds near the tips of the branches will produce the strongest 

 growths, but they will be so far from the head that if left, the 

 branches will be more likely to break down under heavy fruiting. 

 The main branches are usually cut back, leaving them from 6 to 18 

 inches long. Eighteen inches is the maximum length under normal 

 conditions, and there is little doubt that in most cases 12 inches 

 would be a better maximum than the greater length. 



There is one point to be remembered in cutting back the 



