HORTICULTURE 75 



no progress toward healing until growth starts in the spring. These 

 wounds permit a much more rapid evaporation of moisture from the 

 tree and unless carefully protected are very likely to check and be- 

 come favorable places for fungus and bacterial diseases to gain a foot- 

 hold. The delicate cambium layer which forms the new tissue for 

 healing the wound is also likely to be killed back for some distance 

 from the edge of the wound, making it a very much more difficult 

 matter to secure proper healing. If done in late winter or early 

 spring, just before growth starts, the probability of injurious results 

 is materially reduced. 



Second Season's Pruning. Pruning the young tree the second 

 season after setting consists primarily in removing the superfluous 

 branches which have been formed on the main branches chosen at 

 the first pruning, and in shortening the growth. The tendency to 

 leave too many branches the second year is almost as great as at the 

 first pruning. Two or three strong branches, depending upon the 

 number of main branches left will be sufficient to fill in the head. 

 They should be well distributed on the main branches, and quite 

 near the base of the branch so as to keep the top of the tree low 

 and the foundation strong. Branches with a tendency to grow into 

 the center had best be removed the second season as there will be 

 sufficient time to thicken up the head later on. Those chosen for 

 further development of the head should be shortened or headed-in. 

 The amount to be removed will depend upon the extent of growth 

 during the past season, and the character of the tree. Occasionally 

 heading-in will not be necessary, but as a rule from one to two-thirds 

 of the past season's growth should be removed. Trees with a weak, 

 slender growing habit will be cut back more than those making 

 strong, heavy branches. 



At this pruning, precaution should be taken to correct any 

 defects in the direction which the branches are taking. If there are 

 open spaces being left in the top, prune so the top buds of branches 

 on either side will be on the side next to the opening. If the 

 branches have a tendency to grow too upright, cut back so that the 

 top bud will be on the lower or outer side ; if they spread too much, 

 have the bud on the upper or inner side. Pruning back to a par- 

 ticular bud is of great importance in the early pruning of a tree if 

 the best head is to be secured. Many growers pay too little attention 

 to this matter when heading-in. 



Choose, if possible, a good strong bud in the position in which 

 desired. In cutting back, make the cut just above this bud. A 

 strong knife will be found best for this purpose. Cut across the 

 branch diagonally, beginning at about the level of the bud on the 

 opposite side of the branch, and come out on the other side about 

 an eighth of an inch above the top of the bud. This leaves the 

 bud protected and gives a wound which will heal rapidly. 



Third Year's Pruning. If the pruning during the first two 

 years has been properly done, that for the third year will require less 

 attention. The frame work of the tree should be formed by this time 

 so that the pruning will consist almost entirely in removing super- 



