HORTICULTURE 219 



to the above formula. The orchard should be plowed as early in the 

 spring as the soil conditions will permit. Put the soil in fine condi- 

 tion by harrowing, and keep a fine surface mulch by frequent har- 

 rowing until midsummer. Moisture and plant-food are essential to 

 the trees. Weeds rob the trees of both plant-food and moisture. 



Some summer pruning of young peach trees the second season is 

 likely to prove both beneficial and economical. The objects of sum- 

 mer pruning are as follows : To improve the form of the tree. To 

 remove suckers and undesirable branches which tend to make the 

 head or top of the tree too dense. To remove the necessity for 

 too severe winter pruning. To encourage and induce fruit- 

 fulness. The pinching back of irregular or too rapidly growing 

 shoots should be done early in June. Suckers and undesirable shoots 

 can be removed at any time. 



Summer pruning is of especial value in correcting an irregular 

 type of growth; in thinning the top of a tree which is becoming 

 too dense ; in checking a too rapid development in any direction ; and 

 securing uniformity among the individual trees in an orchard. A 

 vegetable crop may be grown between the trees the second season if 

 the soil is in a good state of cultivation. If the land is poor, weedy 

 or very stony it is usually better economy not in intercrop. A cover 

 crop should be sown in the orchard the second season. It will 

 tend to prevent washing and leaching of the soil, winter injury to the 

 trees, and will improve the character and condition of the soil. See 

 that the soil is well up around the trunks of the trees before freezing 

 weather in late fall. Never allow even a portion of the main root to 

 lie exposed to the weather during the winter. Give the orchard its 

 due attention at the proper time for economy and profit. (N. J. E. 

 S. B. 231.) 



Summary of Suggestions to Growers. The peach normally 

 makes about four-fifths of its wood growth by midsummer. Cultiva- 

 tion for the sake of the tree should, therefore, be done early in the 

 season. By the end of July the flower buds begin to form in the 

 South, and in the North by September. Dormant, well-ripened 

 flower buds will stand a temperature many degrees below zero, when 

 less mature buds may be killed by even zero weather. There is a 

 marked difference in the hardiness of different varieties, those of the 

 Peen-to race being the tenderest and those of the Persian race the 

 hardiest. 



The pistil of a flower bud is the first to show injury from freez- 

 ing, taking on a brownish or blackened appearance. The buds swell 

 and blossom when conditions above the ground are favorable. Bloom- 

 ing is in a large measure independent of root action. Early varieties 

 generally bloom later than late varieties. Peaches appear to be quite 

 generally self-fertile. In localities where flower buds are nor- 

 mally killed by cold a crop can generally be secured by laying down 

 the trees on the approach of winter and protecting with a light cov- 

 ering until danger from frost is past in spring. Whitewashing is a 

 cheap method of retarding the swelling of fruit buds in the winter 

 and delaying blooming in the spring. Winter injury is most severe 



