238 HORTICULTURE, FORESTRY, FLORICULTURE 



ally be prepared in the fall. This will be a measure of safety against 

 possible injury from severe winter weather that may follow, though 

 if the winter proves to be mild, most hardy varieties would go through 

 without injury, in which case they would still grow if cut fresh from 

 the vine in the spring at the time for planting them out. Cuttings 

 should be made about 1 foot in length or long enough to include three 

 or more joints. They should always be made from a shoot of the 

 last year's wood, called a cane. 



The first cut, beginning at the base of the cane, should be made 

 about half an inch below the lower eye or bud, then draw the cane 

 forward to the desired length and cut off again below the bud in the 

 same manner and so proceed until all the cane is divided into cut- 

 tings. The lower or butt end of each cutting will be thus recognized 

 by its short and uniform length below the bud, while the upper end 

 will have a longer stem or spur extending above the upper bud. This 

 fact, if remembered, will always enable the planter to determine 

 which end of the cutting is the lower end, the one to be inserted in 

 the ground. 



If the cuttings are made in the fall, as they usually should be, 

 they may be tied in bunches of convenient sizes and buried in a dry 

 place in the garden by covering them completely with fresh, clean 

 garden soil, until time for planting in the following spring. Great 

 care should be taken not to place them where they will be covered 

 by stagnant water at any time during the winter. 



As soon as the soil is in proper condition to work in the spring, 

 a bed or nursery row should be well prepared and the cuttings taken 

 from their winter quarters and planted in a V-shaped trench which is 

 made ready for them. When they are all placed in the open furrow, 

 by leaning them against the almost perpendicular side at regular 

 intervals of about 4 inches apart, the soil should be drawn in from 

 the opposite side and, when the trench is partially filled, made com- 

 pact about the base of the cuttings by a gentle pressure of the foot, 

 after which the trench should be filled to the level. They should 

 be so placed as to bring the upper bud of each cutting just even with 

 the surface of the ground. During the spring and summer follow- 

 ing, the ground must be well cultivated, allowing no weeds nor grass 

 to grow among the young plants. Many, but not all, of the cuttings 

 of most hardy varieties tnus treated will grow and form good plants 

 for the vineyard at the end of the first year. They are seldom so 

 good for transplanting after they have stood the second year in the 

 nursery. 



Preparing the Young Vine for Transplanting. If the farmer 

 has grown his own vines the first step in transplanting them to their 

 permanent places will be to dig them from the nursery or plant bed 

 where they have grown. And here great care must be observed or 

 the roots will be badly mutilated. It has already been said that grape 

 roots are long, slender, and numerous and that they naturally spread 

 near the surface of the ground. If the spade is inserted near the 

 vine the roots will be cut short and fatal consequences will probably 

 follow the operation of transplanting. Set the spade not nearer than 



