HORTICULTURE 259 



the soil can be brought in contact with each of them. When large 

 plants, with a thick mat of roots are used, this is particularly neces- 

 sary, as otherwise the soil would only be in contact with a layer of 

 roots upon the outside of this bundle and the inner roots will become 

 dry and the plant will wilt. There is also considerable danger of loss 

 if attention is not given to the depth at which the plants are set ; they 

 should be at such a. depth that the bud will be just above the surface, 

 as if deeper than this there will be danger that, especially on heavy 

 soil, the bud can not make its way through the soil, while if not deep 

 enough a part of the roots will be exposed and the plant will be very 

 likely to dry out. If placed, perhaps, a quarter or half inch deeper 

 than it grows in the field, this will be sufficient to allow for the 

 settling of the plant and will leave it in about the right position. In 

 planting with the trowel the same method may be used as with the 

 dibble or spade, but with a few plants many think it will pay to take 

 somewhat more pains with the planting; a large hole is dug and in 

 the bottom of this a conical elevation is left, around and upon which 

 the roots are spread. 



After placing the plants at the right depth, the soil is pressed 

 against them with the dibble, or hands, so that it will be in close 

 contact with the roots, and the success of the planting will be 

 increased if the feet are used to assist in packing the soil ; pressure 

 upon one side will generally suffice, but if the soil is sandy a foot may 

 be placed at either side of the plant. The continued and repeated 

 pressure with the feet about the plant, as practiced by some, is not 

 advisable. 



When the mound system of planting is used, the soil is drawn 

 into the hole with the trowel and is firmed about the plant with the 

 hands and feet. Some persons object to the use of the dibble in 

 planting strawberries, and their objections can be well-sustained 

 against the ordinary round dibble, or pointed stick, but the form 

 used by most planters consists of a flat piece of steel or wood, 3 or 4 

 inches wide and nearly a foot long, which is pointed and with thin 

 edges and provided with a D-shaped handle ; with this a broad open- 

 ing, something like that formed with a spade can be made and into 

 this the roots can be spread. A man accustomed to the use of this 

 tool will set nearly as many plants in well prepared soil, as two men 

 when spades are used. 



The distance between plants will depend somewhat upon the 

 variety and also upon the method of cultivation. For the matted- 

 row system, with varieties that are common, and that do not make 

 many runners, the distance may be from 12 to 18 inches, but with 

 new and choice varieties and such kinds as layer freely, intervals 

 may be increased to two or even three feet. In hills, however, some 

 growers, as mentioned above, set the plants two feet each way, while 

 others have the rows three feet apart and the plants 12 to 15 inches 

 apart in the rows. 



Where the plants are in a small garden in which the cultiva- 

 tion is by hand, many prefer to grow the plants in beds. The 

 plants are set about one foot each way and are kept in hills; four 



