270 HORTICULTURE, FORESTRY, FLORICULTURE 



served by placing them in a box in slightly moistened sawdust and 

 burying the box 6 to 10 inches deep in a shady place in the soil. 

 The leaves should first be removed. 



When the slocks are dormant the bark can not easily be sepa- 

 rated from the wood, but when they have commenced to make a new 

 growth, which they do several times during the year, the buds may 

 be set. In a frostless climate it is well to set the bud several inches 

 above the ground. At such a point make a vertical slit in the bark of 

 the stock about l 1 /^ inches long, and at the lower end of this make a 

 horizontal incision with the edge of the knife turned slightly up- 

 ward. Taking the bud wood in the left hand, place the knife about 

 half an inch below a bud and make a shallow cut, removing the 

 bud with about 1 inch of bark. Now, with the knife raise the 

 corners of the bark on the stock where the two incisions were made, 

 and, being careful not to invert the bud, insert it, pushing it up the 

 vertical slit. When in place, bind it snugly, but not too tight. One 

 of the best tying materials is muslin which has been saturated with 

 grafting wax. Simply bind it about the stock, covering all the 

 incisions but not the bud, and so lapping it that it will shed water. 

 It will hold tightly enough without any tying. Unwaxed strips of 

 cotton, candle wicking, raffia, or any such soft material may be 

 used to tie the buds, but the use of the waxed muslin gives extra 

 assurance of success, especially in a climate where evaporation goes 

 on rapidly. 



About ten days or two weeks after setting the buds examine 

 them to see whether they have united with the stocks. If they are 

 still green and a grayish line of new growth is seen where the 

 incisions were made, it may be concluded that a union has been 

 effected. If so, cut off or partly cut off the stock a few inches above 

 the bud, and the latter will soon begin to grow. The growing shoot 

 may be tied to this remaining part of the stock until it has attained 

 a growth of 12 to 15 inches, at which time it is best to cut off the 

 stock close to the bud with a slanting cut Then it may be necessary 

 to support the new growth by tying it to a stake, using some soft 

 tying material 



This is known as "shield" budding by the inverted T method. 

 The ordinary T method is more commonly practiced with deciduous 

 trees and is also much used with citrus species. It is precisely the 

 same as the method above described, except that the horizontal 

 incision is at the top instead of at the bottom of the vertical cut in 

 the bark of the stock. 



The Orange on Other Roots. In some citrus countries it has 

 been found a distinct advantage to bud oranges upon seedlings of 

 other species. Each species of citrus has its peculiar adaptations to 

 climate and soil, which may be taken advantage of by the propa- 

 gator who wishes to use them as stocks upon which to bud. In 

 sections where this class of fruit has long received careful attention 

 the matter of desirable stocks for certain localities and species has 

 been fairly well worked out. 



The sweet orange is itself a very satisfactory stock for average 



