272 HORTICULTURE, FORESTRY, FLORICULTURE 



down on the three remaining sides, severing all the roots. From 

 the trench side the tap-root may be cut off and the tree carefully 

 lifted and placed upon a grain sack. The corners of the block of 

 earth are then rounded off and the ends of the sack are brought 

 up about the ball and tied to the trunk. A rope is also run around 

 the ball and under it. The tree may then be carried to its destina- 

 tion and planted without removing the sack, which will soon decay 

 in the son. Citrus trees may, in this way, be transported long dis- 

 tances with comparative safety. 



Planting the Grove. It is important that the trees be set in 

 straight lines for business-like and neat appearance and for con- 

 venience in tillage. There are various methods of arranging the 

 trees, but the simplest is that known as the rectangular system. To 

 use this system, determine upon a base line for the first row, and 

 parallel to which all the rows of trees are to stand. Standing at the 

 end of this row, fix upon a line at right angles to this base line. 

 This may be done by nailing together two 10-foot boards at right 

 angles, by use of a square and bracing them with a third board. 

 Place this device upon the ground so that one side of it will be 

 exactly on the base line. The other side wall determine the rows as 

 they run crosswise. Place straight stakes along both these rows at 

 the distances at which the trees are to be planted, and repeat the 

 operation for the remaining two sides. These stakes all around the 

 field will determine every row. The rows should now be completed 

 by setting stakes accurately at the proper distances, a stake to mark 

 the place for each tree. 



Oranges may be planted from 20 to 30 feet apart, according 

 to variety, soils, and personal taste. It is desirable to have a greater 

 distance between the rows than between the trees in the row. 



If the whole field has been thoroughly and deeply prepared, as 

 it should have been, it will only be necessary to dig holes of ample 

 size to admit the root system without cramping. If there has been 

 any neglect in preparation, much larger holes will be required. 

 When the hole is dug, the stake must of course be removed, and in 

 order to mark the exact point where the tree is to be placed, a plant- 

 ing board may be used. This is made of a board about 4 

 inches wide and 5 to 5^2 feet long. A hole is made in each end, 

 and exactly midway between these two and on the edge of the board 

 hole at each end of the board. Raise the board and the tree stake 

 in the central notch. Then put a wooden pin or short stake in the 

 hole at each end of the board. Raise the 'board and the tree stake 

 may be removed. When the tree is to be set, place the planting 

 board down again with the pins through each end. The trunk of 

 the tree must occupy the central notch of the board. 



Setting the Tree. This must be done with care. If its roots 

 have not been balled and sacked, some will be more or less dried 

 and some may have been bruised. These should be cut back to 

 sound and living wood before the tree is set out. Placing good sur- 

 face soil in the bottom of the hole, set the tree upon it and spread 

 out the roots so that they will occupy their natural position as 



