504 HORTICULTURE, FORESTRY, FLORICULTURE 



connection with the wood. Before setting the glass it is best to apply 

 two coats of lead paint to the sash. If zinc points are used instead of 

 nails in setting the glass, breakage will be best avoided. Putty can 

 be used or not, but by its use greater strength and durability are 

 secured. 



The Pit. The depth to make the pit for the heating material, 

 the manure, will depend upon how long a period it is desirable to 

 have the heat maintained. Hotbeds constructed late in February or 

 early in March will need to have heat kept up for several weeks, or 

 until the warmth of the spring season has tempered the surrounding 

 soil. In this case a depth of four feet will maintain proper conditions. 

 Ordinarily about April 1st is the best time to start hotbeds to raise 

 plants for the garden. At this time two feet in depth of manure will 

 secure all the heat necessary. Good drainage must be secured at the 

 bottom surrounding the pit. If water from snows, rains or springs is 

 allowed to enter the manure the heat will soon be destroyed. 



To utilize the entire hotbed surface, it is not enough to have heat 

 only from below. If the pit opening is made no larger than the size 

 of the frame, the sides and ends will always be top cold to develop 

 plant growth around the borders. For this reason it is best to make 

 the pit one foot longer each way than the frame, which will extend 

 the heating surface beyond the borders. 



Heating Material. This should be from the horse stable and as 

 nearly free from coarse litter as careful forking over will separate it. 

 Horse manure thrown in a compact heap will start fermentation in 

 the coldest weather. Therefore it is best to save manure for the hot- 

 bed by keeping it spread in thin layers in a dry place or open shed 

 until about the time wanted for use. By partial fermentation of the 

 manure before use some of the heat becomes lost, and its utility is 

 impaired. Very dry manure should be moistened at the time it is 

 prepared to put into the pit. It is very desirable to have the heat well 

 established and to see that the whole mass begins fermentation at the 

 same time. This can be accomplished by thorough forking over 

 and repiling once or twice. 



The use of manure from cattle should be avoided as it furnishes 

 no heat and tends to cool the horse manure if mixed with that ma- 

 terial. Until the pit has been filled the frame is left to one side. It 

 is important to have the material so filled in that it will settle with an 

 even and level surface. Thorough forking over and tramping all 

 parts alike will accomplish just what is desired. After the pit has 

 been made a little over full the frame can be placed in a level and 

 permanent position, and about four inches more of manure filled in. 

 Let the strong ammonia gas escape for three or four days and then 

 add six or eight inches of rich garden soil with which has been mixed 

 about one-third of its bulk of thoroughly decomposed barnyard ma- 

 nure, well pulverized. The sides and ends should be well banked 

 with the soil previously taken from the pit, and in doing this the 

 main idea is to secure good surface drainage. The sash should be 

 put on as soon as the seed bed has been prepared, and planting can 



