FLORICULTURE 523 



reduction of time (10 to 25 per cent) required for maturing, are of 

 still more importance. (Y. B. 1895.) 



PRUNING OP ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 



There are few ornamental trees or shrubs that do not require 

 occasional pruning or trimming at one season or another for their 

 best growth and development. The extent of this, with certain ex- 

 ceptions, however, is often quite limited, and in this respect orna- 

 mental plants differ from fruit trees. Pruning is usually given too 

 little attention by the amateur planter and home-maker, with the 

 result that the task is put off as long as possible to be finally dis- 

 posed of with little or no forethought and regardless of results. 



Some Reasons for Pruning. All newly set trees should have 

 their branches cut back to correspond with the loss of roots incident 

 to transplanting, though this does not mean that such trees are to 

 be reduced to poles. At planting time all mutilated parts of roots 

 should be removed, and if the trees are of considerable size, i. e., 

 eight feet or so high, the main limbs should be cut back to within 

 12 or 14 inches of the trunk, the leader being, of course, retained. A 

 sufficient number, varying with the kind of tree, of the more vigor- 

 ous of these main limbs is left to form the framework of the crown. 

 These should be disposed at nearly equal angles about the trunk, 

 and not lie in the same horizontal plane. If handled in this man- 

 ner, such trees as the ash, locust, mulberry, cottonwood, and syca- 

 more will need little further attention for some years, and will 

 usually develop into pleasing, symmetrical forms. When small 

 trees are used, considerable pruning is often needed the first few 

 years after planting on account of excessive growth induced through 

 climatic conditions, cultivation, enriched soil, or extra water supply. 

 This growth commonly manifests itself in water sprouts, over-devel- 

 opment of the head causing top heaviness and leaning, or in extra 

 growth in occasional vigorous branches in one part of the plant or 

 another, all of which tend to destroy the otherwise natural form of 

 symmetry of the tree, unless corrected by careful pruning. The 

 much planted and justly popular pepper tree is a notable example 

 of the above, due partly to its soft, yielding wood. On this account 

 during its first years, cutting back and thinning out of the crown is 

 necessary, in addition, to secure bracing of the trunk. 



It is justifiable at times to resort to topping in the case of shade 

 trees to induce a denser growth, or where trees have become too tall 

 to be in harmony with their surroundings. Such pruning, however, 

 should be done with deliberation as to effects desired. Dead or un- 

 healthy branches or those broken by storms should be removed 

 speedily, and if necessary the remaining top or crown reduced suf- 

 ficiently to insure reasonable uniformity later. Slow growing or 

 unhealthy trees are often encouraged to make vigorous growth by 

 judicious pruning, in connection, of course, with other proper care. 

 Open-headed trees may be made to grow more compact by heading 

 in, while a gradual thinning out of the inner branches corrects trees 

 with too dense or compact heads. Likewise, those that are non-sym- 

 metrical can be worked into symmetrical trees by removing the 



