72 AUTUMN VISIT TO LIPARI ISLES 



we started on the ascent 3,000 feet to the summit, first 

 through rich vineyards, which kept us well supplied with 

 grapes, and then on to rugged lava and loose ash, welter- 

 ing under the blazing sun. At length, as we turned an 

 angle, we caught sight of the active cones, firing away 

 viciously, like so many pieces of devilish artillery. In half 

 an hour more we were on the edge of the middle crater 

 ring, about 2,500 feet high. Outside it is another crater 

 ring, concentric, encircling it ; inside are the active cones, 

 which vary in number from time to time ; when we saw 

 them there were five, all active, exploding in turns, a mag- 

 nificent spectacle. Amongst other points of interest we 

 noticed that the smoke from one of the smaller cones was 

 puffed out in rings like those a skilful smoker can blow 

 from his mouth ; but these were on a grander scale, some 

 yards across. 



A steep ash-slope extended from the edge of the crater 

 to the foot of the active cones, and down this, crossing 

 the still smoking cakes of lava which the cones were 

 continually ejecting, my friend Signer Sambon, an 

 experienced and intrepid volcanologist, started to run. 

 Anxious to get a nearer view, I followed him, and as we 

 stopped together he remarked, " Now you are here, there 

 is but one thing to say Don't run away, or you will 

 be killed." " Run away ! " This to an Englishman born 

 in Tipperary ! Was it likely? "As to the four cones to 

 the right," said Sambon, "don't mind them; the only 

 one I fear is that little spitfire on the left " (we were close 

 to it !) " Good ; but when it goes off tell me what I am 

 to do." " You must look up into the air, and when you 

 see the stones coming down, dodge them ! " 



We waited in the position the front rank takes to 

 receive cavalry. It seemed a long time, but was only 

 five minutes, and then the volcano went off like a cannon, 

 but a cannon with a mouth many yards across. Eed-hot 



