I 

 88 FUNAFUTI 



of the Tritons sounding the loud conch, and half expects 

 to " see old Proteus rising from the lea ! " 



If it be with surprise that we first make the ac- 

 quaintance of these islands, the feeling is in no degree 

 abated with closer familiarity; from beginning to end 

 their whole story is a chapter of surprises. 



Mariners soon learned to dread the surf-beaten shores, 

 for they could find no anchorage within a safe distance 

 of the breakers, 'the sides of the island descending pre- 

 cipitously to great depths within a few hundred yards 

 of the coast ; and within this distance a reef of rough 

 and rugged rocks forms the shelving floor of the sea. A 

 barque once driven on to this heels over, with its deck 

 facing the overwhelming waves, and is swept clean from 

 stem to stern. 



Bristling with dangers on the outside, the island 

 conceals within itself a spacious inner sea, or lagoon, 

 into which, through dangerous passages, a ship may 

 make its way, and, once there, securely ride cut the most 

 destructive storm. The island thus differs from most 

 others in being hollow in its midst : a mere rocky rim 

 to a sea-lake, which may be as much as 60 or even 100 

 miles across, and 60 fathoms deep, though 20 fathoms is 

 more usual. From this feature the islands are known, 

 not only as " low " islands, but as " lagoon " islands. 

 The shores of the lagoon are bordered by a smooth, 

 gently-sloping beach of flesh-coloured sand, over which 

 the wavelets fall faintly : and palms and laurel-like 

 shrubs growing down to the water's edge are reflected 

 in its crystal margin. 



When the voyager first set foot on this strange new 

 land it was a fresh surprise to him to find it peopled. 

 The inhabitants, usually graceful and prepossessing in 

 appearance and amiable in manners, came timidly forth 

 to welcome him, speaking a language full of soft vowel 



