92 DWARF FRUIT TREES 



factory pyramid or a strictly vase form. Some of the 

 better growing Japanese varieties of plums approach 

 the latter form fairly well. Red June, Satsuma, and 

 Chabot may be mentioned as particular examples. 

 With such varieties a true vase form can be main- 

 tained as well as with peaches. In dealing with a 

 majority of varieties, however, a simple bush-like head 

 without a mathematically constructed frame work is 

 about the best that can be secured. In most cases the 

 head should be formed low, preferably not more than 

 six inches from the ground. Still considerable lati- 

 tude has to be allowed the gardener's fancy in deal- 

 ing with dwarf trees, and the writer can easily imag- 

 ine a garden design which would require trees to be 

 high headed. It would be practicable and excusable 

 in some cases to form heads four, five, or even six 

 feet from the ground. This is often done in England 

 and Germany with all sorts of fruit trees, this form 

 being referred to as a "standard." 



A head can be secured at almost any point on a 

 plum tree of good growth, by heading back at the 

 desired height. Four to six branches should be allowed 

 to grow the first year and in course of time these will 

 be increased to eight, twelve, or even more. That is, 

 there will be this number of what we might call main 

 branches because they are all of approximately equal 

 importance. 



At the end of the first year after the tree has been 

 headed back the main branches, which have now 

 formed, are to be cut back in turn. With all strong- 

 growing varieties it is best to remove from one half 

 to two-thirds of the annual growth from these main 



