PETER AT ZAEDAM. 35 



in the boat happened to recoguLe a man there who was fishing in a boat, as one Kist, who 

 had worked for some time in Russia. He was called to them, and his astonishment may 

 be conceived at seeing the Czar of all the Russias in a little boat, dressed like a Dutch 

 skipper, in a red jacket and white trousers. Peter told Kist that he should like to lodge 

 with him ; the poor man did not know what to do, but finding the Czar in earnest procured 

 him a cottage behind his own, consisting of two small rooms and a loft. Kist was instructed 

 not to let any one know who the new lodger was. A crowd collected to stare at the 

 strangers ; and to the questions put to them, Peter used to answer in Dutch that they 

 were all carpenters and labourers hard up for a job. But the crowd did not believe it, 

 for the dresses of some of his companions belied the statement. The Czar, shortly after 

 arriving at Zardam, paid visits to a number of the families of Dutch seamen and carpenters 

 whom he was employing at Archangel and elsewhere, representing himself as a brother 

 workman. Among others he called upon a poor widow, whose deceased husband had once 

 been a skipper in his employ, and to whom he had some time before sent a present of 

 500 guilders. The poor woman begged him to tell the Czar how " she never could be 

 sufficiently thankful " for his great kindness, little dreaming that the rough-looking young 

 man before her was that monarch. He assured her that the Czar should most certainly 

 be acquainted with her message. Peter proceeded to purchase a quantity of carpenter's 

 tools, and his companions were ordered to clothe themselves in the common garb worn 

 in the dockyards. 



Next day was Sunday, and it became evident that some one had let the cat more 

 or less out of the bag, for crowds of sailors and dock-hands assembled before Peter's 

 lodgings, which annoyed him terribly. But the fact is that a Dutch resident of Archangel 

 had written home to his friends, informing them of the projected voyage, and enclosing a 

 portrait and description of the Czar. Among the crowd a garrulous barber, who believed 

 he had recognised him, shouted out, " Dat is der Tzar ! " and all poor Peter's little stratagems 

 could not save him from the curiosity of the populace. A Hollander has left a description 

 of him, which would indicate that he was too noticeable to be mistaken by any who had once 

 seen him. He was very tall and robust, quick and nimble of foot, and dexterous and rapid 

 in all his actions ; his face was plump and round, fierce in his look, with brown eyebrows, 

 and short curling hair of a brownish colour. His .gait was quick, and he had a habit of 

 swinging his arms violently, while he always carried a cane, which he occasionally used 

 very freely over the shoulders of those who had offended him. " His extraordinary rapidity 

 of movement in landing or embarking used to astonish and amuse the Dutch, who had 

 never before witnessed such ' loopen, spring en } en klauteren over der schepcn? " 



When the embassy entered Amsterdam formally, Peter took part in the procession, 

 but only as a private gentleman in one of the last carriages, and he was not recognised. 

 But little of his time was given to the ambassadors; it was almost entirely spent in 

 the docks, among shipbuilders, and on the shipping, and in sailing about the Zuyder Zee 

 and elsewhere, where he was accustomed to carry so much sail on his little boat as to alarm 

 his companions for his safety. " His first exploit in the dockyard of Mynheer Calf, a 

 wealthy merchant and shipbuilder, with whom he was prevailed on to lodge, after quitting 

 his first cabin, was to purchase a small yacht, and to fit her with a new bowsprit, made 



