38 THE SEA. 



blue tunics, their large white trousers, their gaiters or white stockings, and their black 

 felt shoes with strong white soles. They form themselves into symmetrical groups, and 

 do everything with method. Fancy a huge cabin, in which the small table of twenty-two 

 guests is lost, with all these little Chinamen fluttering round them and serving them in the 

 most respectful manner, without making any noise. The Hamburg chief, idly leaning 

 against a console, with one hand in his trousers' pocket, directs with the forefinger of the 

 other the evolutions of his docile squadron." The daily inspection, common on all well- 

 regulated passenger ships, is thus described : 



" July 6. Every day, at eleven o'clock in the morning and at eight o'clock 

 in the evening, the captain, followed by the purser, makes the rounds of the ship. lit 

 that of the morning all the cabin-doors are opened, only excepting those of the ladies; 

 but the moment these have gone out the the captain visits them with equal care. If 

 any matches are discovered they are pitilessly confiscated. This morning the captain 

 invited me to accompany him, and I could convince myself with my own eyes of 

 the perfect order and discipline which reign everywhere. Nothing was more tempting' 

 than that department which one greatly avoids, the kitchens. The head cook and his 

 assistants, all Germans, did the honours of their domain. Every man was at his post, and 

 only anxious to show the visitors the most secret corners of his department. It was like- 

 an examination of conscience carefully made. The provision and store-rooms were admirable. 

 Everything was of the first and best quality; everything was in abundance; everything 

 was classed and ticketed like the drugs in a chemist's shop. The Chinese quarter is on 

 the lower deck. We have about 800 on board. They are all in their berths, smoking 

 and talking, and enjoying the rare pleasure in their lives of being able to spend five 

 weeks in complete idleness. In spite of the great number of men penned into so 

 comparatively small a space, the ventilation is so well managed that there is neither 

 closeness nor bad smells. The captain inspects every hole and corner, literally everything 

 and everywhere we found the same extraordinary cleanliness. One small space is reserved 

 for the opium-eaters or smokers; and we saw these victims of a fatal habit, some eagerly 

 inhaling the poison, others already feeling its effects. Lying on their backs and fast 

 asleep, their deadly-pale features gave them the look of corpses." 



A common occurrence, but always of great interest to the passengers, is thus 

 described : 



" July 7. Contrary to our usual sleepy habits, we are all to-day in a state of 

 excitement and agitation. The China is to come to the point where it ought to meet the 

 America, which was to leave Hong-Kong five-and-twenty days ago. Our top-sails are 

 filled with little Chinamen, whose eager eyes are fixed on the horizon. The captain and 

 officers are standing close to the bowsprit, their telescopes pointed in the same direction. 

 Even my Spanish friend has left his engine, his flower-pots, and his wife's portrait, to 

 gaze at the blue sea, slightly rippled, but, as usual, without a speck of a sail. No 

 America ! The captain's heart is in his shoes. He consults his charts, his instruments, 

 his officers, all in vain. The day passes without the steamer being signalled. The dinner 

 is silent and sad. Every one seems preoccupied, and the captain is evidently anxious. It 

 seems that the directors of the company make a point of their two boats meeting. It is 



