128 CALIFORNIA VEGETABLES 



methods of planting in the field the experience of two prominent 

 large-scale growers is given. First, the method of Mr. William 

 Boots, one of the old line asparagus growers on the alluvial lands 

 of the Santa Clara valley: 



Next March (for I think March the best month to plant in, all else being 

 equal) choose a good piece of land, the very best is none too good, and plow 

 just as deep as you can. I plow with four good horses on a single plow, and 

 plow one foot deep, getting the land in as good condition as possible. Take 

 a good team and draw furrows where the rows are wanted, going twice in 

 the same place, just as deep as we can get the plow to run, throwing the 

 furrow each way, making the distance six feet between rows. Then carefully 

 take up the plants, carefully separate them, for if they have been very closely 

 grown they will cling together ; spread out the roots as you plant them, clear- 

 ing away all clods or anything that may hinder the growth. Plant not closer 

 than three feet between plants in the rows. For field planting for the market 

 by all means do not plant closer than six feet between the rows, and three 

 feet apart in the rows ; for if there is a plant that delights in plenty of room 

 and air it certainly is asparagus. Cover the plants about two inches deep, and 

 during the summer cultivation the pulverized earth will drop into the ditches, 

 and by the time the season's cultivation is over the ditches or furrows will be 

 nearly full, which finishes the first year in the field. 



Another method is that approved by S. J. Murdock, on the peat 

 lands of Orange county : 



The rows should be four feet apart and the plants eighteen inches from 

 each other in the rows, and even more room would be better if the land is 

 not too valuable. After the ground is well plowed and finely harrowed, mark 

 out the rows the desired distance apart with a plow by going twice in each 

 row, throwing a furrow each way from the center of the row, and from eight 

 to twelve inches deep ; then go one or more rounds in this with a cultivator, 

 closed up, so as to loosen up the soil well in the bottom of the row. If you 

 have any fine fertilizer put it in the row where you want to set your plants; 

 mix well with the soil and set your plants over it. Place the plants in the 

 bottom of the prepared furrow, spread out the roots and cover crown and all 

 about two or three inches the lighter the soil the deeper the plants should 

 be placed so as to secure the proper moisture till they begin to strike root. 

 After the planting has been done, take a light steel garden rake, or, if the 

 rows are even enough, we would prefer the wheel hoe with the rakes on, and 

 stir the soil the whole length of the rows. Then, when the shoots begin to 

 grow and show themselves three or four inches high, the soil should be gradu- 

 ally hoed or cultivated to the plants till the surface is level. The ground 

 should be kept moist, and in most localities irrigation will be found necessary 

 to secure the best results. Do not neglect thorough cultivation, but after the 

 roots begin to fill the ground do not work too deep, as there is danger of 

 injuring them. 



Giving the plant plenty of room favors its productive longevity, 

 while closer planting may secure larger acre-yield at first. In the 

 large commercial plantations on reclaime v d lands of the Sacramento 

 and San Joaquin river bottoms the plants are usually given much 

 greater distances say nine or ten feet between the rows and the 

 plants two feet apart in the row. Much greater depth of covering 

 is secured by ridging the light, peaty soil, so that the shoots have 

 to pierce about a foot of covering on their way to the light. This 



