168 CALIFORNIA VEGETABLES 



is so warm that the seed-bed only needs a little sunshading and 

 ample moisture. 



In colder parts of the state, as for example in small valleys 

 liable to sharp frosts, some seasons favor fall-grown plants, others 

 do not, and though it is always advisable to have them for small 

 plantings by those who delight in taking the chances on early things, 

 January or February planting in a hot-bed for spring and summer 

 growth must be the main practice. Hot-bed plants should be grown 

 at rather a low temperature and transplanted to a cold frame or 

 other place under some cover to harden before planting out. Young 

 plants must not be so wet as to "damp-off" and they should not be 

 huddled together as closely as cabbages may be. 



After-treatment. Field growth of cauliflower is like that of 

 cabbage, though for winter growth one must be sure of a little 

 milder exposure. Planting out during the winter must be done with 

 due regard to the fact that the cauliflower is a more tender plant, 

 and extra care must be had to plant when the soil is in proper con- 

 dition of warmth and moisture. Fall planting requires due moist- 

 ure and the assurance of it is to push the plant along rapidly. 



Garden Practice. Amateurs who have become discouraged 

 over growing cauliflower are advised to try the method of the late 

 Ira W. Adams, of Potter valley, being sure they are faithful in all 

 points before they conclude that this vegetable must be bought, not 

 grown. Mr. Adams' experience was in a small valley where frosts 

 are rather sharp and where fall planting is seldom satisfactory. 



About the middle of February throw into a snug heap a lot of fresh 

 horse manure mixed with short straw and leaves. After standing a few 

 days to heat, throw it over and let it remain a day or two; then make it into 

 a compact heap (on the south side of the barn), some three or four feet in 

 depth and about twice the surface required for the seed-bed. Tread it down 

 well. On this, place three or four inches of good soil made light and rich 

 with fine, well- rotted manure; some leaf mold, sand, and a very little ashes 

 is a very valuable addition. Do not sift the dirt nor have it too fine. This 

 seed-bed must be protected from frost and cold rain, as well as cold days 

 and nights, by a cover of glass or muslin; muslin answers every purpose, 

 is cheaper, easier handled, and does not draw the plants up weak and spin- 

 dling as glass often does. 



From time to time, if the weather continues cold, throw around the 

 seed-bed fresh horse manure sometimes to the depth of four feet or more, 

 leaving only the front side exposed to the sun. The heat generated and 

 escaping from this manure serves to keep the temperature around the bed 

 several degrees higher than it would have otherwise been. When the plants 

 are two or three inches high, transplant to another rich bed without any 

 bottom heat, set the plants three inches apart and keep covered as little as 

 possible in order to harden them. Be sure to keep both seed-beds always 

 well moistened (not wet), with lukewarm water. A little weak manure 

 water occasionally is very beneficial. 



When the plants are six or seven inches high, transplant to open ground 

 on a cloudy day if possible, or just at night, giving each plant a cup of 

 water. The ground should be prepared in the best possible manner and made 

 very rich with manure thoroughly decomposed. Horse, cow, hog, and chicken 

 manure mixed as good as any. Put the plants three feet (or nearly so) 

 apart, to give plenty of room for cultivation, which should be done once a 



